Tools to cut counter-top

[hypno]

I need to cut out the sink hole in a length of high-gloss finish work surface, or counter-top, and am hoping someone can give me some tips as to the best tool to use to make this a clean and easy job.

I have had to do this same job a couple of times over the years, and previously used a jigsaw, but found this method to be inaccurate, as the jigsaw tends to wander very easily and can make the cut uneven. Perhaps I used the wrong type of blade? I seem to recall that I ended up trying to clean up the finished cut out with a file, so it was a good job that I cut the hole quite a bit on the small size. Also, whether using jigsaw or handsaw, cutting from underneath or from the top, the shiny surface of the board is easy to splinter.

Is there a better way?

I have read that using a plunge router is preferred by some, although I do not own one, or have any knowledge of using one. Also, I have read that using the jigsaw with a down-cutting blade can also work. Is this true? I have looked for downward-cutting jig saw blades and cannot find any. Are they known by a particular name other than 'downward cutting jigsaw blade'?

When it comes to routers, are the inexpensive jobs sold below £30 any good, or just not up to the job? Thing is, I don't want to spend loads on a tool that I may rarely use. Okay, so I could hire one for a day or two, but this might cost as much as buying?

Any advice gratefully received.

 

[crank39]

Also, I have read that using the jigsaw with a down-cutting blade can also work. Is this true? I have looked for downward-cutting jig saw blades and cannot find any. Are they known by a particular name other than 'downward cutting jigsaw blade'?

You'll find loads of results if you google 'downward cutting jigsaw blades', blimey it finds it before you've even finished typing so where have you been looking Laura Ashley?

http://www.its.co.uk/pd/Jigsaw-Blades-Pk-5-Down-Cutting-Woodplastic_BOST101BR.htm

 

[Deluks]

They are alright, just go sl-o-o-w, might need 2 or even 3 blades for one cutout. Give the jiggy a rest for a few minutes between cuts. It usually wanders underneath where it won't be seen.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I have looked for downward-cutting jig saw blades and cannot find any. Are they known by a particular name other than 'downward cutting jigsaw blade'?

You're using the wrong jigsaw blade. For Bosch-compatible jigsaws the downcut blades are called T101BR (every maker has an equiv to this code). Don't forget to turn the orbit OFF and drill the corners as well before starting your cuts because twisting blades to cut tight curves also makes them wander on the next straight cut. Better cuts can be achieved using a best jigsaw like the Bosch GST140 or the older GST135 which have an additional lower blade guides and really do cut straighter

Also, whether using jigsaw or handsaw, cutting from underneath or from the top, the shiny surface of the board is easy to splinter.

Were you using a fine tooth blade, like a T101B, and had you turned the orbit off? Comment above about drilling corners and only cutting straights with the jigsaw still applies

I have read that using a plunge router is preferred by some, although I do not own one, or have any knowledge of using one....

When it comes to routers, are the inexpensive jobs sold below £30 any good, or just not up to the job?.

A joiner would use a 1/2in plunge router with 1800 to 2200 watts power output. It's no because we like big toys (OK, we do, but that's not the point....), it's that the job of cutting through a 38mm worktop is pretty heavy on a router - you CAN do it with a 1/4in router, but you'll end up making 1 to 2mm depth steps to do the cut because a small router will simply bof down too easily and there's a good chance the router shank will snap in th eprocess if you aren't careful enough (also look and see if you can get a 1/2in or 12mm cutter long enough (40 to 50mm)

 

[hypno]

Well actually I was searching for downward cutting jigsaw blades on (dare I say it) e--y! Shame on me!! Hey, but joking aside, its possible to find most things advertised for sale on there.

The jigsaw I used to cut worksurface many years ago was a Black and Decker (I still have it and it still works after 25-odd years). Clearly this isn't a high precision professional tool, so not suprising perhaps that I struggled when using it to make my cuts.

It was mentioned that when using a jigsaw to cut through work surface it tends to be the underside of the board that suffers more from the wandering effect of the blade. That's okay, but I have also read that I should be cutting the worksurface from underneath, so this would mean that the wandering effect of the blade would end up on the shiny surface, which would not be good.

Anyway, you're the professionals here. I'll let you decide what's best.

 

[hypno]

Well, what do ya know. I found the downward cutting blades for Black and Decker http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLACK-AND...Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item27c808f935

 

[Deluks]

Good, cut from top with these blades, follow advice above and you'll be sorted. Get a decent flat bit as well if you don't have any.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

It was mentioned that when using a jigsaw to cut through work surface it tends to be the underside of the board that suffers more from the wandering effect of the blade. That's okay, but I have also read that I should be cutting the worksurface from underneath, so this would mean that the wandering effect of the blade would end up on the shiny surface, which would not be good.

Actually that's not completely true. A downcut blade works in compression and will flex off track pretty easily especially if the saw is not very accurate to start with, a conventional blade is an upcut design which, working under tension will tend to pull in a straight line (think about holding a blade of grass between two hands - pull on it and it straightens, push together and it flexes - a biy like a Japanese saw). One of the things which banjaxes jigsaw blades for straight line cutting is when they are taken through a series of tight curve cuts before you attempt a straight line cut - this can induce extra "set" on the blade which makes it favour one side or the other, hence the wander. The other thing is attempting to use a blunt blade - your worktop is worth a lot more than the blades so if needs be use 2 or 3 to make the cut-out. Having waffled all that I'd still use a downcut blade from the top myself and live with the bottom of the cut perhap needing adjustment (used to do that before I bought a plunge saw)

I'd also avoid buying the cheapest blades I can on eBay and stick to brand name blades. The only thing worth having that goes cheap these days is a budgie!