Treatment for new shed

[stevec59]

Hi,
Well I have ordered my new shed, decided to go for 8' x 10.The shed come pretreated, but before it is put up I intend to treat it (so that I can do the floor & roof before it goes up). The question is, what do I use, the company that I am buying the shed from say Cupranol, but as that is what they sell I guess they are bound to say that!
I would prefer to spray.

I also need to do the garden fence sometime (Brand new fence as the house is new, will this be pre-treated?), should I use the same as the shed or someting different?

Thanks

Steve

 

[HandyHands]

Can't go wrong with a couple of coats of Sadolin Classic. I'd also put a couple of extra coats of preservative on - to be safe.

 

[Deluks]

Sadolin is good, but bit more pricey I think. Cuprinol shed n fence is decent quality. I have long suspected that Wickes own brand 5 litre shed n fence in tins is the same product.

Fence will be pre treated, if there's a lot of it I would just give it a couple of coats of whatever isn't that expensive. Any shed own brand fence treatment will do. Expect to pay £5 - £6 for a 5 litre tub.

Just to clarify, the previously mentioned Wickes/cuprinol stuff is a much better product than cheaper stuff, It's about £12-£16 for 5 litre metal tin and I would use that on the shed for sure.

Fences, you can go for a cheaper product.

Whatever you do re-coat both every 2-3 years.

Spraying is an expensive way to do it and even the slightest breeze will send the stuff everywhere. Get a 4" or 5" brush instead.

Also, make sure the shed isn't in contact with the ground. Get some pavers/concrete blocks or timber bearers underneath it and make sure air can circulate.

 

[stevec59]

Thanks Deluks.
Shed is going onto a solid concerete base, I was told that I can put the shed directly onto the base, n o need for bearers etc, is that correct?

I do like some of Wickes own stuff, so might give there shed and fence stuff a try and there own fenceprotector for the fence.

Thnaks Again

Steve

 

[HandyHands]

I'm in the process of laying a slab for a new shed. Like yours it will be concrete, but I'm also going to raise the shed off the concrete using either timber or paving slabs to aid circulation and keep the shed timbers dry. The gap between the shed and base will be covered with fine mesh to hopefully stop any unwanted house guests.

 

[stevec59]

Thanks! I did ask the company that I am buying the shed from about using Bearers or something to lift it of the concerete base, but they said that i don't need to!

Actually I just contacted the Manufacturers of the shed and the base has bearers on it, so that is good!

I did also think about putting roofing felt on the Base before its laid, or is that silly?

Steve

 

[big-all]

if you have a shed and the concrete is the floor the sides must cover the concrete the concrete must be around 2 inches above the surrounding ground and you must have a dpm ot felt between the wood and concrete otherwise you have problems areas where your waterproof shed may fail

if the sides dont cover the concrete edge you can get damp collecting or water being driven under into the shed

if the concrete is at ground level the base off the shed sides are suceptible to decay as its in contact the grass leaves earth ect that will hold the moisture

 

[EddieM]

if you have a shed and the concrete is the floor the sides must cover the concrete the concrete must be around 2 inches above the surrounding ground and you must have a dpm ot felt between the wood and concrete otherwise you have problems areas where your waterproof shed may fail

if the sides dont cover the concrete edge you can get damp collecting or water being driven under into the shed

if the concrete is at ground level the base off the shed sides are suceptible to decay as its in contact the grass leaves earth ect that will hold the moisture

You've clearly been at the Power Devil again! I think what you were implying was that if you have a concrete base then the shed should overlap said base by 2 inches otherwise a DPM is required

 

[LeadFarmer]

Despite what the manufacturers say, I would still stand the shed on timber/concrete bearers.

Although your shed already has bearers, they will be part of the floor and will only be about 2" thick at best. If the base has prolonged contact with water, these bearers will eventually rot. I would want my shed to be lifted higher than this, say about 6", this also reduces the rain splashing back upwards from the hardstanding.

Lay timber batons/fence posts on the hardstanding, then lay the floor on these, or you could even use concrete fence posts.

And treat the underside of the shed floor before building, its the only chance you will get.

I sprayed mine with Cuprinol Heritage Shades 'Old English Green' paint, using a fence spray gun, does the job in minutes. Whilst it was still wet I also brushed it in with a paint brush to make sure every nook was covered. Easy peasy lemon squeezy. Normal shed stain looks awful in my opinion.

On the roof of mine I brushed bitumen onto the roof, layed roof underfelt on top, and then mineral felt over this (at 90 degrees) with clout nails.

 

[stevec59]

Thanks all Lots of good points here!

I suppose the other thing to think about is, Do I want power in the shed for Lighting and to power Lawn Mowers \ Power Tools etc, I guess it would be best to ask in the Electrics part of the forum regarding that?

Steve

 

[HandyHands]

Yep - Electrics forum would be best. Even if you're not putting in the electrics straight away, it would be wise to lay some conduit/sleeving to the shed and feed a "pull through" wire or rope into it for later. Best of luck and let us know how you get on.

 

[stevec59]

Thanks, good tip about putting conduit in and pull through in!

Just in case anyone else is looking of Shed & Fence, the cheapest i have found it is at Wilkinson (14.97), onthe web shows out of stock, but they have it in store in town wheer I work (Harlow, Essex), most other places seem to be @ £20, at £14.97 its cheaper tha Wickes's own (£15.99)

Steve