Triton T30i electric handwash - repair, renew or replace?

[MickBee]

I have a Triton T30i electric handwash in an understairs toilet - 3 years old and it now leaks when someone tries to use it.

I would like advice on whether to try & repair it, replace it with a new one of the same make & model - or whether there are more reliable makes & models of oversink unvented electric handwash units? [For various reasons, an undersink unit is NOT an option.]

Details of the problem.

Triton T30i Hand Wash

• MickBee
• 1 Mar 2011
• 1

Arrow points to pressure switch; water sprays out from the joint between the white plastic &...

[Water sprays out from the joint between the white plastic & grey plastic parts of the assembly, just below the arrow.]

I took off the cover, and emailed Triton's Technical dept with a photo & details; their (prompt) reply was that it would appear to the pressure switch area of the Stabiliser valve, in order to correct the problem the Stabiliser Valve Assembly would need to be replaced.

I phoned their Parts dept. and was quoted £30.95 + £6.95 p&p; a new complete unit would be £54.95 + £6.95 p&p (both inclusive of VAT.)

MY OPTIONS
1) the skinflint approach - does anyone know if a repair of the existing pressure switch is possible - and if so, how difficult would it be?
2) A replacement of the Stabiliser Valve Assembly - does anyone know how difficult it would be to replace the pressure switch in the existing unit?
3) Fit a new handwash unit of the same make.
4) the "stop throwing good money after bad" idea - are there other makes that are better, or is £62 every 3 years to be expected?

Any constructive advice welcomed.

 

[Peterade]

Poor MickBee,

Sorry I can't help. I have had one for 12 years but use it very rarely.
Works fine but now can't fully turn off so it drips a bit. I was looking on DIYnot to see if anyone else had found a solution.

I hope you solved your problem.

 

[seco services]

MY OPTIONS
1) the skinflint approach - does anyone know if a repair of the existing pressure switch is possible - and if so, how difficult would it be?

No not repairable.

2) A replacement of the Stabiliser Valve Assembly - does anyone know how difficult it would be to replace the pressure switch in the existing unit?

Easy to replace.

4) the "stop throwing good money after bad" idea - are there other makes that are better, or is £62 every 3 years to be expected?

It has failed rather early in it's life.
One i fitted in the missis shop 10 yr ago is still going strong and can't fault them.

New valve £33.45 inc p/p from george at the showerdoc.

 

[seco services]

Sorry I can't help. I have had one for 12 years but use it very rarely.
Works fine but now can't fully turn off so it drips a bit.

Stabiliser valve faulty.

 

[MickBee]

Late feedback, but it might help someone else wanting to repair a Triton T30i.

What I did, after getting no reply to my query in March 2011, was:
1) I bought a new handwash unit (for £45.36 off the shelf at TLC rather than the £61.91 that Triton wanted) as I feared that a repair would be difficult.
2) Having fitted the new one, I then dismantled the old one. A replacement of the valve assembly should be easy – a few screws and no special tricks. When I searched online in March, I found one for £27.95 (at shower-spares.co.uk)
3) I disassembled both the stabiliser part and the valve part but couldn’t see anything obviously wrong with it. I’ll accept seco services’ view that a repair is not possible.
4) Obvious safety warning to turn off both electricity & water before starting any work.

 

[Peterade]

Ugh! I thought I might only need a new washer but need a whole new unit just to cure a drip. Ugh!

Thanks for info though.

 

[MickBee]

Ugh! I thought I might only need a new washer but need a whole new unit just to cure a drip. Ugh!

Thanks for info though.

Annoying that you can't replace a washer, but you only need to replace the Stabiliser Valve Assembly, not the whole handwash unit. Cheapest that I can see is £27.95 (inc postage & VAT) at shower-spares.co.uk - hope this helps.

 

[ctprod]

Late feedback, but it might help someone else wanting to repair a Triton T30i.

I read your second post - replacement of the whole unit. It seems it will be easier. Other than turn off all the water and electricity, did you you have to do anything else apart from removing the wires and then replacing them into the new unit. I would be really interested to know as i think i will have to buy a new one myself.



What I did, after getting no reply to my query in March 2011, was:
1) I bought a new handwash unit (for £45.36 off the shelf at TLC rather than the £61.91 that Triton wanted) as I feared that a repair would be difficult.
2) Having fitted the new one, I then dismantled the old one. A replacement of the valve assembly should be easy – a few screws and no special tricks. When I searched online in March, I found one for £27.95 (at shower-spares.co.uk)
3) I disassembled both the stabiliser part and the valve part but couldn’t see anything obviously wrong with it. I’ll accept seco services’ view that a repair is not possible.
4) Obvious safety warning to turn off both electricity & water before starting any work.

 

[cjcoffin]

This may help someone fix what seems to be a common fault.

My Triton T30i failed in exactly the same way as the OP describes. I thought when I took the white plastic top cover (arrowed above) that I would find the washer/diaphragm had perished or split, but it was intact. The fault seems to be it shrinks with age so there is not enough compression at the edges to make a good seal. So I put a circle of 1mm diameter stranded electrical wire just inside the grey housing around the edge of the diaphragm to make it appear thicker, and now the white cover grips it more securely and the leak has stopped.

If that doesn't fix it then replacement diaphragms seem to be available on ebay for 8 quid though it beats me why Triton won't supply it as a spare part.

HTH, Chris

 

[kearnem3]

Hello, thank you for useful info diagnosing leak issue. So my replacement stabiliser valve has arrived. Do I have to take out the cylinder to left of the valve or do I just undo nut below it and waggle it out? Help appreciated. Maria