trying to tap & die a hole for a monobloc tap connect 15

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HELP

I HAVE BROKEN OFF MY 10MM MONOBLOC TAP CONNECTOR IN THE HOLE IN MY BLOODY EXPENSIVE WATER FALL TAP

I NEED TO TAP OUT THE HOLE SO MY NEW 10MM CONNECTOR CAN FIT.

DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT THE THREAD PITCH IS THAT I NEED. I THINK I NEED A TAP THAT IS 10X1 BUT I AM NOT SURE.

PLEASE HELP AS MY HUBBY IS DRIVING ME MAD AND IS THREATENING TO BUY A BRAND NEW TAP!!!

BLONDE BIMBO XX
 
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Not sure if tapping a hole will be that successful. If you get the thread wrong, you are knackered.

Try screw extractors. you turn them in anticlockwise, and when they bite will start turning out the piece that is stuck.

http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;j...+extractor&searchbutton.x=17&searchbutton.y=4

Failing that, take the tap to your nearest automotive machine shop, and get them to remove the piece for a few quid.
 
THANKS FOR YOU ADVICE; HOWEVER THE HOLE IS TOO SMALL TO FIT AN EXTRACTOR WHICH IS WHY I NEED TO FIND THE THREAD PITCH SO IT CAN BE TAPPED.

NOT SURE IF WE HAVE ANY AUTOMOTIVE PLACES THAT CAN DO IT BUT WILL HAVE A LOOK.
 
Automotive = part changers - like gas fitters :LOL: you want a Precision Engineering shop ;)
 
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Try a local engineering workshop,somewhere that does mechanical repairs to industrial machinery etc

These type of places carry all sorts of taps and dies and will be able to advise you to the best course of action

There should be two connectors and they will probably be able to take thread measurement from there and re tap thread for you

Speak for yourself NIGEL,i still have all sorts of taps and dies laying in my shed and the use of lathe ,apart from boilers and heating i also like to play around with classic cars ,its real challenge when you have to make create panels and remove rusted broken bolts,leadwork is another firm favourite and used extensively in place of filler.
 
What classic car's have u got Happyplumber ?? going to Goodwood for the festival of speed ??
 
What classic car's have u got Happyplumber ?? going to Goodwood for the festival of speed ??


Nothing at the moment mate,the last project was Karmann Ghia,rebuilt it totally almost from scratch.I have been tinkering with Cars since i was kid,even before i could legally drive.

I am looking for project at the moment actually but i will have to clear a space in the workshop,it seems like plumbing related junk has taken over and the internal space is forty nine square metres and i cant even swing a cat

I have a pit ,hoist dozer and Industrial quality Mig welder ,stuff i have collected over the years
 
The thread is probably M10 X 1mm pitch, somewhat different to the commonly used standard thread, so you would be looking for a specialist tool supplier.

Press a standard 6mm or 8mm bolt against the tap tail thread, and hold it up to the light. If the 6mm threads mesh nicely, the pitch is 1mm. If the 8mm threads mesh, it's 1.25mm

The fitting was probably bored, faced and tapped at one machine setting to ensure concentricity of the thread and the seating. if it is re-threaded even slightly out of true, it will leak.

I would advise completely dismantling the tap before starting - any brass filings left behind afterwards may cause problems late.

If you can ensure concentricity, boring the broken tail out to the tapping size (8.75mm for M10 X 1mm) and picking the remains of the old insert out with a scriber may do the job.

Sometimes a tapered square filed on the end of a piece of silver steel, or even mild steel, and driven into the hole in the broken tail can be used like an allen key to remove the broken bit.

Or a 'last ditch' repair - bore out the thread to 10mm, and soft solder a piece of 10mm copper pipe into the hole, so you have a rigid tail you can connect to with pipe fittings of your choice. Whether that is practical depends on access to fix the tap in place afterwards, particularly with a rigid tail in the way.
 
I would use these....
screwextractor.jpg


With a dab of loctite 276 allowed to set fully before attemting the extraction.
Simples. :D
 

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