I have some waterpipes in my unheated garage, and have a tubular heater under them (with a separate thermostat set at 5C) which prevents the risk of freezing.
It's more to do with the stuff she'll keep in there as well as comfort. Low end buildings tend to be damp and mouldy once the heating goes off. Especially relevant with the winter on its way.Thanks
She's going to be using it as a craft room/workshop
Basically just need to keep it from going musty/mouldy.
She has a panel heater that she'll be using when she's actually in there.
It will be cold.
I strongly advise insulating the ceiling and walls, adding a floor, and draughtproofing the door and windows before throwing money away on electricity.
Some photographs, and measurements of the timber studs depth and gap between them, and we can advise how to do it.
The studs are 45mm deep and the gaps vary but the widest is 560mmIt will be cold.
I strongly advise insulating the ceiling and walls, adding a floor, and draughtproofing the door and windows before throwing money away on electricity.
Some photographs, and measurements of the timber studs depth and gap between them, and we can advise how to do it.
So would you recommend something like celotex or would polystyrene suffice?I don't think you can get mineral wool as thin as that, so I suggest fixing insulation foam boards to the studs to make an inner wall.
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Even 25mm thick will improve insulation dramatically. Thicker is better.
Foam is quite fragile, so overboard it with ply or something, which will not be damaged if you knock it.
I don't know how much you want to spend.
You could line the inside surface of the walls with breathable membrane, to prevent water, insects or draughts getting in, before boarding. The pocket of still air will contribute to insulation.
Although you want to draughtproof it, provide enough ventilation at each end, near the ridge, to ventilate out water vapour.
Does it have a floor?
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