Hi,
I spent yesterday on a project inspired by a noisy shower pump and a high-pressure-shower loving wife.
Basically I've ditched the pump and fed the shower mixer at mains pressure by adding a (modified) 3-port valve, plate heat exchanger and flow switch.
I have a WB 24 RI boiler (sealed system) pictured here:
In the next picture you can see the plate heat exchanger, diverter and flow switch:
And here's the existing motorised valve and bypass (S-plan):
The diverter valve is a standard Honeywell mid-position valve which I had spare, but I modified it to make it into a diverter valve. This involved breaking a couple of tracks on the circuit board, and soldering in a new link:
1) Break white from SW1 NC
2) break D1 from SW2 NC
3) link SW1 Com to SW1 NO
This winds the valve to position A when Grey is energised. When the valve is fully wound, SW2 closes, so I now connect White to permanent live and Orange to switched-live to fire the boiler as you would with an S-plan.
The shower works really well - significantly higher pressure and flow than the pump (which was a Salamander 1.7 bar) and much quieter of course. Also won't run out of hot water by having long showers!)
The existing cylinder still provides hot water to the bath, basin and kitchen.
I will lag the rest of the pipework before it gets frosty!
I spent yesterday on a project inspired by a noisy shower pump and a high-pressure-shower loving wife.
Basically I've ditched the pump and fed the shower mixer at mains pressure by adding a (modified) 3-port valve, plate heat exchanger and flow switch.
I have a WB 24 RI boiler (sealed system) pictured here:
In the next picture you can see the plate heat exchanger, diverter and flow switch:
And here's the existing motorised valve and bypass (S-plan):
The diverter valve is a standard Honeywell mid-position valve which I had spare, but I modified it to make it into a diverter valve. This involved breaking a couple of tracks on the circuit board, and soldering in a new link:
1) Break white from SW1 NC
2) break D1 from SW2 NC
3) link SW1 Com to SW1 NO
This winds the valve to position A when Grey is energised. When the valve is fully wound, SW2 closes, so I now connect White to permanent live and Orange to switched-live to fire the boiler as you would with an S-plan.
The shower works really well - significantly higher pressure and flow than the pump (which was a Salamander 1.7 bar) and much quieter of course. Also won't run out of hot water by having long showers!)
The existing cylinder still provides hot water to the bath, basin and kitchen.
I will lag the rest of the pipework before it gets frosty!