Tuya Thermostat Installation

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Hello everyone, first time poster.

So I'm in the process of smartifying my house and have picked up one of these cheap Chinese Tuya Thermostats to replace my existing thermostat, I just want a professional opinion before I possibly deny my household of hot water and heating.

So this is my existing set up
20220328_125104.jpg


And the wiring diagram

Ub7aV2tl.jpeg


And this is my new thermostat

20220329_095616.jpg


L and N self explanatory but the green/yellow which I assumed would be earth has confused me, thanks in advance for any help and advice
 
Last edited:
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Beware- your new controller may not be suitable for your setup.
At the moment you have L and N powering the thermostat and volt-free contacts connecting 1 and 3 when heat is required. Lines 1 and 3 might not be 240 volt, some boilers use an extra low voltage for that function.
Your new toy uses the L supply to the stat for signalling as well as power. More info needed- pics of the terminations at the boiler or wiring centre would be useful, as would make/model of boiler, are there motorised valves, that sort of stuff
 
Agreed. Needs clarification, and cabling needs sorting out. The existing wiring uses the earth conductor as a live (heating on). This is very naughty.
 
I tried to find Tuya Thermostat, one I found not what I would call "Smart".

In general wall thermostats have many functions, and you select those you need.
1) On/off or modulating, if the boiler supports some thing like OpenTherm then better to get a thermostat which also supports it, these turn heating up and down rather than on/off.
2) With on/off we have volt free, and tied to 230 volt supply, when the boiler uses 24 volt control the thermostat needs to be volt free.
3) Internet linking allows geofencing however as I found often you can't set the distance, so of limited use.
4) So have algorithms that work out how long it takes to heat the room, so you set time you want room hot, and thermostat adjusts when to start heating, however often there is no point as wall thermostat does not control each room temperature, it is the TRV (thermostatic radiator valve) which does each room so you need those algorithms built into the TRV as with Drayton Wiser.
5) Wall thermostat and TRV can be used in one area like the hall to work together, I am sure of that as done it, without a link, but far easier if the TRV and wall thermostat are linked, in fact some wall thermostats would be better described as hubs in fact EcoHome allows you to set the TRV from the wall thermostat.

Most homes today in UK are split into zones, there are exceptions, some open plan homes don't need it, and with hot air central heating not required as the air circulates around the home, there are two ways to make zones, one is the hard wired zone valve, the other is the TRV, the thermostats tend to be designed for either/or not found one to do both so EPH do thermostats which can be set as master/slave with up to 10 wall thermostats to work zone valves and still connect to boiler using OpenTherm, But although the Drayton Wiser does an OpenTherm module this is only for the single channel version, they do a three channel wall thermostat so two zones plus domestic hot water, but then it is a simple on/off control.

There are some thermostats which seem to work wrong way around, the thermostat sets the TRV rather than TRV controlling thermostat, Energenie is one, they did work with Nest as well as their own wall thermostat but support for Nest has been with drawn, Nest in USA have temperature sensors so monitor three areas, but not released in UK, so in UK Nest only really any good when whole home controlled from one point. i.e. hot air system.

Hive is also an odd one out, only switches on/off, but does link to TRV however with a maximum temperature of 22°C so Hive wall thermostat in the hall likely works well, but not in main room when using linked TRV's.

Each system has good and bad points, and it takes some thought to select one which suits you, in the main the wall on/off thermostat is only to stop the boiler form cycling, the TRV controls room temperature and having use electronic TRV heads I can say with a modulating gas boiler they can keep the rooms within 1°C of set point, but unless linked electrically in some way, normally a radio link, it can't turn the boiler on, in theory can turn it off, but they don't so if using only TRV's with no wall thermostat the boiler would cycle on/off all summer unless you manually turned it off.

So we traditionally fit a wall thermostat in a room normally kept cool so will switch off when likely going to be a warm day, on the ground floor as heat raises, where there is no alternative heating including sun through windows, and no outside doors, don't know about your house, but my house no such room.

So we compromise, fit it in the hall, but also fit a TRV on hall radiator set lower than wall thermostat so hall reheats fast when door opened, but slows down so does not switch off wall thermostat too soon so rest of house can heat up, this does need to hall to also cool faster than other rooms, and that is the problem with this house, hall is centre of house, and cools too slow.

Selecting where the thermostat goes is not easy with some homes, so having the wall thermostat connect to temperature sensors be them independent or built into the TRV is the easy way to set up the home.

I made a mistake, I got Nest Gen 3, which I was told at time connected to Energenie TRV's but does not, and the geofencing switches between eco and comfort settings, but seems to have no way to set distance, it has really clever algorithms, non seem to work in my home so all turned off.

So for you step one see if boiler supports OpenTherm, if not supported, does the boiler have its own modulating thermostat option, then consider how your home is used, I for example when still working had the kitchen heating switch on, followed after 20 minutes with dinning room, then 20 minutes living room, and then 2 hours before bedrooms, the delay room to room resulted in kitchen warming up faster, but not too much delay or boiler would turn off or down, I have 9 programmable TRV heads in the house, 4 energenie and 5 eQ-3, non are linked to my Nest Gen 3 thermostat, in hind sight would have been better with Drayton Wiser, or Honeywell EvoHome or even Hive, but not worth the expense to change now. I cross fingers and hope the Nest temperature sensors will be released in the UK.

I found it takes around an hour to heat from cold to reasonable level, which is longer than it takes to drive home from work, so in real terms simple time works better, odd one out however is in the summer I do check temperature at home when shopping and turn on the AC manually with phone if room too hot, I have AC vented through the chimney so no security risk, but it needs a bottle to collect the condensate, so don't want it to run automatic, as could come home to a pool of water on the floor.

Hope you learn from my error, and ensure your wall thermostat does connect to TRV heads if your home needs it.
 
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Thanks guys, so heres the PCB of my Vaillant ecotec pro 28
20220329_111633.jpg
 
Refreshed page and pictures came up, were not there when first looked. I note using 24 volt control but has option for bus control, seems already using Hive so not to use the bus and to loose ability to link TRV would be a down grade so why bother?

As said green/yellow wires should be over sleeved at least. Rather naughty.
 
Refreshed page and pictures came up, were not there when first looked. I note using 24 volt control but has option for bus control, seems already using Hive so not to use the bus and to loose ability to link TRV would be a down grade so why bother?

.
So, to decipher for @Mr_C
You cannot use the Tuya stat because that will send 230volts back to the boiler. The boiler uses 24volts to call for heat. He needs to get a thermostat with volt free contacts.
Is that correct @ericmark ?
 
So, to decipher for @Mr_C
You cannot use the Tuya stat because that will send 230volts back to the boiler. The boiler uses 24volts to call for heat. He needs to get a thermostat with volt free contacts.
Is that correct @ericmark ?
Yes need thermostat with volt free contacts. This one looks nearly the same MODBUS.jpg however does have volt free contacts. Think it was a Moes? But he shows using Hive, which is better than the Moes, as it will connect to TRV heads, so why down grade?
 
So I'm in the process of smartifying my house and have picked up one of these cheap Chinese Tuya Thermostats to replace my existing thermostat, I just want a professional opinion before I possibly deny my household of hot water and heating.

It seems like a potentially bad idea to me, handing control of your heating to being reliant on wifi and perhaps the Internet working. Either fails and you have no heating and hot water, or it may even run flat out.
 
I had it with loss of EE mast, and Nest Gen 3, it would still have worked had I realised what was wrong, every time I walked past the wall thermostat it detects I am home so heating went on, but I was sitting most of the day in the bedroom and feeling rather cold, it was not until I used the PC and web browser did I realise heating was on Eco setting, so I had to disable the geofencing and even when EE mast went back up and running, I have not re-enabled the geofencing.

However did not see any reference to geofencing with the Tuya thermostat. Looking at the Moes thermostat I see nothing about geofencing, I would think likely to do with the app, and once you have the app installed then you may find something.

Note there are different versions of the Moes, need to be careful to select correct one, some as special for underfloor heating with remote sensor so floor does not get too hot.
 
Yes need thermostat with volt free contacts. This one looks nearly the same View attachment 265559 however does have volt free contacts. Think it was a Moes? But he shows using Hive, which is better than the Moes, as it will connect to TRV heads, so why down grade?

Thank you everyone for the great advice.

@ericmark so the moes one has volt free contacts am I correct in thinking that is the same principle as Dry Contacts?
 
Thank you everyone for the great advice.

@ericmark so the moes one has volt free contacts am I correct in thinking that is the same principle as Dry Contacts?

Yes. Just a set of contacts with no voltage on them, so you can put whatever voltage you desire on them for switching.
 
Yes. Just a set of contacts with no voltage on them, so you can put whatever voltage you desire on them for switching.

Apologies I have so many questions, so with that being said do you reckon my new tuya would still be unsuitable as it has 2 outputs on the side that claim to be volt free outputs

InCollage_20220331_105337883.jpg
 
1 and 2 or the right appear to be the only set of voltage free contacts, rated at a maximum of 3amps. It doesn't give much of a clue as to whether that 3amps limit is a resistive maximum or inductive load, nor any limit on the voltage switching ability. Those details might be on the spec. sheet.
 

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