Under counter heater - how to connect

[phatboy]

Hi,

I need to fit an under-counter fan heater in my kitchen. The heater comes with 2m of flex, but I am not sure of the best way to connect it to the fixed cabling.

A flex outlet would be ideal, but where should this be put? I won't be able to get my head under the worktop to connect it if its under there!

Thanks
Tim

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Have you got a link to heater model/type?
Are you talking about plinth heaters?

 

[phatboy]

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DXBFH24BWST.html

I think I will fit an un-switched socket at floor level, with a FCU above the counter-top

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

The MI states http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/DataSheets/Dimplex/BFH24T.pdf

Check that the supply voltage details on the heater are in accordance with your electricity supply. The appliance is fitted with 2 metres of flexible cable type H05VV-F size 3 x 1.5mm for electrical connection. The cable may be used to connect the heater to the fixed wiring of the premises through a suitable connection box. The supply circuit to the heater must incorporate a double pole isolating switch having a contact separation of at least 3mm. The power supply cable should be routed from the plinth space to the connection box, ensuring that the cable is left with enough slack to allow removal of the appliance for maintenance. The cable must be protected from any sharp edges.

so follow those instructions, A DP 13A fuse connection would be suitable, but you must assess the circuit you are taking the load from as that circuit may already be a heavily loaded circuit.

 

[kai]

The 13amp DP switched FCU at counter top level, and an unswitched socket at low level will do just fine for a two and a half kilowatt heater. If the ring is heavily loaded, it may instead be run off a B16 dedicated radial circuit from the main board (call a competent electrician in).

 

[phatboy]

Thanks for the guidance everyone.

The circuit won't be heavily loaded - we have a separate utility room on a different ring main that runs the washer and dryer.

In the kitchen will just be toaster, kettle, coffee maker and dishwasher.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

So toaster 1500 watt
kettle 1800-2500
dishwasher 3000
coffee maker 800
heater 2400
That could max out and RFC, if all on at the same time

 

[phatboy]

So toaster 1500 watt
kettle 1800-2500
dishwasher 3000
coffee maker 800
heater 2400
That could max out and RFC, if all on at the same time

And if I energised every single device in my house at the same time, I would blow the supplier fuse. But that's not going to happen ever

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Yes but it would be possible on a cold morning and the dishes ain't been done, to have plinth heater on, dishwasher on, toaster, kettle for tea and coffee maker for the coffee drinkers, providing you have two washed cups that is!
Not saying that will ever happen, just if your in a position now to avoid a potential overload and the frustration of having to reset the trip, to get a brew and slice of toast, on a cold frosty morning. It could be worth considering!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

No CH boiler within easy reach?

 

[phatboy]

No CH boiler within easy reach?

All dry electric heating in our house, through choice!

 

[phatboy]

Yes but it would be possible on a cold morning and the dishes ain't been done, to have plinth heater on, dishwasher on, toaster, kettle for tea and coffee maker for the coffee drinkers, providing you have two washed cups that is!
Not saying that will ever happen, just if your in a position now to avoid a potential overload and the frustration of having to reset the trip, to get a brew and slice of toast, on a cold frosty morning. It could be worth considering!

I do agree, however when I had some RCBO's fitted and additional circuits last year, it filled the CU, so there is no space for additional circuits.

We always run our dishwasher overnight, to benefit from the cheaper electricity, so I think the risks are minimal

 

[ban-all-sheds]

All dry electric heating in our house, through choice!

Ah - I was going to say "Blimey, you must be a very rich man", but then I saw you lived in Jersey, so could take that as read.

 

[phatboy]

I wish. However in Jersey electricity is the cheapest source of energy for heating.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

That seemed such a bizarre thing to claim, that I did a bit of digging.

According to their price list, JG charge between 11.48p - 17.59p per unit.

But they define a unit as a kWh.

British Gas, for example, (and I can pretty much guarantee that they won't be the cheapest) charge around 4p/kWh, well under half the price of electricity.


This is great:

http://www.channelonline.tv/channelonline_jerseynews/displayarticle.asp?id=492998

"The gas company deny taking advantage of being the only player in the market."

So they have no competition, but that's not why they charge 3-4x as much for gas as companies not far from them where there is competition?

I may have been born at night, but it wasn't last night. Can't believe that nobody there has demanded the competition authority look into it.

Or burned their offices down.