Under stairs cable routing, options please

[Bluedog22]

Hi, so my daughter wanted a socket in the living room on the side of the stairs no problem I says hmm , but it’s not built how I imagined and the floor is concrete.

I’ve chased a channel from the nearest socket and fed a cable through trunking to the under stairs back wall dot and dab ( it is a ring) my idea was fit a fuse spur and a double socket under the stairs ( she has a rechargeable vacuum) then external trunking around the inside of the under stairs. Although I might skip the fuse and socket. Can’t think how to get the cable out if I do that. I can’t think of another way other than trunking. Because that exterior wall is so thin. Also no idea wats behind the latter at the end of the stairs.

The “wall” where she wants the socket appears to just be double thick plasterboard, to be honest not really sure what it is so I was going to mount a surface mount double socket on the exterior just pushed through the wall behind the trunking.

Is there a better way to this?

Thanks in advance.

 

[blup]

Trunking or clipped direct are the only options unless you break into the plasterboard and feed through the studs. I always extend the ring to allow for possible future extensions of the circuit. Sockets look better flush fitted. Measure either side of the nearest door to ascertain the depth available for a pb suitable pattress. Stud finder/rare earth magnet to identify and avoid joists.

 

[Bluedog22]

So you think I can fit a sunken Patrice box in there? It looks maybe 30mm thick but I will get a proper measurement. That’s just eyeball.

i I can absolutely channel all the way around . So I think you are saying that ‘wall’ under the stairs is basically two sheets of plaster and some wood framing in the middle I’d rather do that than fit trunking that can get knocked about when she’s throwing stuff in there.

Will the end ( the foot of the stairs ) be similar?

 

[SUNRAY]

Personally to avoid the FCU I'd run 2 cables from the existing socket to extend the ring to the socket within the cupboard, then spur from there to the next socket.

There are several options open to you.
One would be to run the cable up, over and back down around the door such that the cable or trunking is offered some protection from being knocked by the wooden trims around the door frame, then place the socket further left than planned as shown in green

The hollow wall looks to be 100mm timber studswork (or possibly 75mm) whch will offer plenty of space to install a plasterboard box

Plan section of the part of the wall between the cupboard door and the table with cable (surface trunking) and plasterboard socket in green
The usual spacing between vertical timber stud frame is 400mm, with a bit of luck if the socket is within the first 400mm from the door it will miss the stud. Tapping the wall surface will often give a good indication of the timber position.

 

[SUNRAY]

Another option would be to investigate the vertical plasterboard at the end of the cupboard, it's hard to tell from the pics but 500mm seems to be reasonable

it will be hollow and the side section is likely to be something like this

Measure the distance in pink to decide if the position for a socket in green would work then make a small hole to look through. Assuming it all looks clear it would just be a case of running a horizontal cable in the left of the cupboard (either buried or in surface mount trunking - I assume what you call external) and into the void.

However, your original suggestion is fine except I'd use a plasterboard box in place of surface mounted.

 

[Bluedog22]

Personally to avoid the FCU I'd run 2 cables from the existing socket to extend the ring to the socket within the cupboard, then spur from there to the next socket.

There are several options open to you.
One would be to run the cable up, over and back down around the door such that the cable or trunking is offered some protection from being knocked by the wooden trims around the door frame, then place the socket further left than planned as shown in greenView attachment 377050
The hollow wall looks to be 100mm timber studswork (or possibly 75mm) whch will offer plenty of space to install a plasterboard boxView attachment 377051
Plan section of the part of the wall between the cupboard door and the table with cable (surface trunking) and plasterboard socket in green
The usual spacing between vertical timber stud frame is 400mm, with a bit of luck if the socket is within the first 400mm from the door it will miss the stud. Tapping the wall surface will often give a good indication of the timber position.
View attachment 377054

Brilliant. Thanks. Didn’t think of that route over the door. Doh. Looks like I only think in 2D lol

 

[Bluedog22]

Another option would be to investigate the vertical plasterboard at the end of the cupboard, it's hard to tell from the pics but 500mm seems to be reasonableView attachment 377057it will be hollow and the side section is likely to be something like thisView attachment 377059Measure the distance in pink to decide if the position for a socket in green would work then make a small hole to look through. Assuming it all looks clear it would just be a case of running a horizontal cable in the left of the cupboard (either buried or in surface mount trunking - I assume what you call external) and into the void.

However, your original suggestion is fine except I'd use a plasterboard box in place of surface mounted.

Hmmm another good idea. While I’ve worked a lot of things I’ve never ran cable behind walls before.

. Yeah didn’t think about that either.

Really appreciate these ideas guys never thought about them

 

[SUNRAY]

Hmmm another good idea. While I’ve worked a lot of things I’ve never ran cable behind walls before.

. Yeah didn’t think about that either.

Really appreciate these ideas guys never thought about them

My own domestic work is all hidden one way or another, as much as anything else to protect it from external influences. When I moved into this house there was cable clipped to nearly every skirting board (phone, power, TV) by the time we had fully decorated there was not a single bit on show.

 

[SUNRAY]

Measure A to B and A to C, I'll expect them to be about about 120 mm (or 90mm) different, indicating the width of the hollow wall.

 

[Bluedog22]

The plater wall down the side is 68mm thick. I imagine plaster board is around 15mm? So that leaves 28mm cavity?

Going to find a paper clip and drill a hole to find thickness, if it’s 10mm a 35mm dry lining box might fit

 

[SUNRAY]

The plater wall down the side is 68mm thick. I imagine plaster board is around 15mm? So that leaves 28mm cavity?

Going to find a paper clip and drill a hole to find thickness, if it’s 10mm a 35mm dry lining box might fit

68 is a surprise, I assume the foor frame creates a fair step.

68- 30 = 38 so should easily take a dry lining box.

 

[Bluedog22]

Personally to avoid the FCU I'd run 2 cables from the existing socket to extend the ring to the socket within the cupboard, then spur from there to the next socket.

Just thinking how to do this, makes sense to me but picturing it in my head is hurting. Maybe using wagos?

Or I’ve been wasting for an excuse to by one of those quick wire things lol. But don’t know how I’d burry that in the wall.

 

[Bluedog22]

68 is a surprise, I assume the foor frame creates a fair step.

68- 30 = 38 so should easily take a dry lining box.

Math was never a strong point doh

 

[EFLImpudence]

68 - 15 = 53.

 

[SUNRAY]

68 - 15 = 53.

Maths and reading not your strong points then.