UPDATE!!! Wireless Heating Control System...

[Bob UK]

Regarding my previous post on this matter I contacted Drayton Help Line and they were very helpful indeed. They gave the following information...

Remove 'fuse' and make safe.

Remove the Manual Thermostat wiring in the 'airing-cupboard'...

Next on the ACL Programmer Model LP241 which is located next to the Glow Worm boiler downstairs...

Remove the Yellow wire on No 4 terminal and connect it to terminal No 3 on the SCR wallplate.

Then run a wire between terminal No 4 (which contained the yellow wire and is now empty) and terminal No 1. (Which contains 1 Blue wire)

Now what I am a little confused at is, when I removed the Manual Thermostat wiring I find that the Yellow wire is connected to a 'terminal-block' which also contains a White wire going to the 'Honeywell Motorised Valve' which was energised by the thermosts 'call for heat'

What I am now concerned at is, that the white wire is now left on the 'terminal-block' quite alone, with no other wires connected to it.

Could some kind person advise me about this 'white-wire' please. I do not want to upset the Valve in any way.

I have at this moment put the wiring back as it was until I get a reply to see if it is safe to go ahead with draytons advise. I am in no way doubting the advise given only trying to be 'cautious'

Regards

Below is the original post for you to read.

Bob UK




Advice please regarding the following...

Drayton Digistat SCR/RF1 Wireless Heating Control System -

This is intended to replace the Drayton manual thermostat, which is located on the outside of the ‘airing cupboard’ on the landing.

A Glow Worm Micron 80FF Fanned Flue Boiler provides our Hot Water system. This is located on the kitchen wall downstairs and is controlled by a Programmer...switching the system on/off twice daily. Life Style Model LP241,

I wish to remove the old Thermostat and replace it with the Wireless System, on the livingroom wall downstairs.

The wiring instruction for the Wireless System states: -
The SCR should be wired to the Combi boiler or central heating wiring using the correct type of cable or flex. The SCR should be wired in to replace hard-wired room thermostats.


Anyway looking at the front of the Glow Worm boiler 'electrics' there is a 'block-connector' there are 7 connectors and the wiring is as follows looking at it from left to right:-


Lp =LIVE – (Permanent)
Ls =LIVE – (Switched)

N = NEUTRAL

EARTH MAIN
EARTH PUMP –

Pl = PUMP LIVE –
Pn= PUMP NEUTRAL


In the airing-cupboard we find a 7 terminal block-connector.

The manual thermostat is connected as follows:-

(4) - Yellow wire (5) - Red wire (7) - Blue wire

Thermostat Info:- Drayton
Siebe Climate Controls Ltd
T45 RTS 1

also connected to the block-connector are:-

Honeywell Motorized Valve V4073A 1088

(1) Purple wire (2) Red wire (3) Brown wire
(4) White wire (6) Yellow/Green wire

Boiler thermostat

(1) Black wire (2) Blue wire (3) Brown wire

 

[Moss5]

http://content.honeywell.com/uk/homes/catalogu.htm#MOTORISED VALVES
Go to the Honewell link above.
Download (right-click/save as) the following .pdfs
2.21 V4073.pdf
3.4 Y Plan.pdf
(You need Adobe Reader)
http://rapidshare.de/files/12831165/v4073aop.pdf.html

The colours stated do not align with Honeywell 'Y' plan.

 

[Bob UK]

Moss5 Grateful thank's for your input.

The position of the terminal block can be deceiving as to distinguish colours, or maybe I am going through a 'Senior-moment'

The colour formation, and I stand corrected are as follows:-

Reading from Left to Right on the 'block terminal'


1) Dark grey wire (2) Orange wire (4) White wire (6) Yellow/Green wire (7) Blue wire..

It is from (4) where the Yellow wire connects to the Manual Thermostat at the moment.

Sorry for the error...

Regards

Bob UK

 

[Moss5]

I'm having to guess, but it would appear that from the airing cupboard there was a link to the old room-stat. You would have to verify with a meter.
Blue (N)
Red (Line out)
Yellow (Switched line return) which connected to White (4073 3-way valve)
So 230V went out and came back to feed the 4073 through White.
To replicate the swiching function of the thermostat, the new receiver should be mounted in the airing cupboard.
The Red (Line out) should go to the receiver #1 (Common)
The White wire to the 4073 could go directly to receiver #3 (call for heat)
If the white wire does not reach, you could use a piece of the yellow wire. as in the original.
The receiver needs 230V L-N power.

 

[Bob UK]

Moss5 grateful thank's for your reply.

Yes your guess was correct..

The thermostat that I wish to replace is close to the airing cupboard door. It has 3 terminals that go inside the cupboard to a terminal block, described earlier, they are as follows...

1 Yellow wire to No 4 terminal ( This is the terminal with the white wire going to the Motorised valve)
1 Red wire to No 5 terminal ( This becomes Yellow out - going downstairs)
1 Blue wire to No 7 terminal ( This also has a Blue going to the Motorised Valve) + (Blue out going downstairs)

Inside the airing cupboard there is a three pin socket that could be used for the for the receivers power.

What gauge of cable would you advise using ?

Regards

Bob UK

 

[Bob UK]

Moss5 grateful thank's for your reply.

Yes your guess was correct..

The thermostat that I wish to replace is close to the airing cupboard door. Which is on the landing upstairs) It has 3 terminals that go inside the cupboard to a terminal block, described earlier, they are as follows...

1 Yellow wire to No 4 terminal ( This is the terminal with the white wire going to the Motorised valve)
1 Red wire to No 5 terminal ( This becomes Yellow out - going downstairs)
1 Blue wire to No 7 terminal ( This also has a Blue going to the Motorised Valve) + (Blue out going downstairs)

Inside the airing cupboard there is a three pin socket that could be used for the for the receivers power.

What gauge of cable would you advise using ?

Regards

Bob UK

 

[Bob UK]

Sorry...Mistake entry.

 

[Moss5]

The receiver relay contacts are rated at 2A, so the power cable could be 0.5mm2 3-core. The earth could be connected to the SCR wallplate.
The power could be taken from any L - N feed that is protected by the 3A fused spur that feeds the central heating system.

 

[Bob UK]

Moss5 Grateful thank's for your valued input.

I feel happier wiring the Control System the way that you have described which looks the 'natural' thing to do.

I think maybe that the advisors that I spoke to from Drayton were unaware of the 'Honeywell Motorised Valve' that was wired into the old manual thermostat. I take the blame for that.

Anyway many regards

Bob UK