Upstairs lighting in thatch roof, landlord certificate.

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Had a search here (https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/thatch-roof-spaces.430821/ was close, but an aged thread).
Just looking for ideas here if you don't mind.

We have a thatched cottage we let out, hence a repeat need for Landlord safety cert. Owned for 22 years.

Had a very thorough (recommended) electrician check recently: he wasn't happy with the wiring (T&E) in the attic to the ceiling lights, and we understand his concern: it is impossible to prevent mice from spending some time up their, despite our efforts with *cough* poison....
Upstairs has 2 bedrooms and a bathroom: the bedrooms have a centre light and 2 wall lights wired through the attic, the bathroom a pullcord light and fan.

His big meter suggested an issue (I think resistance wasn't great - 2.6 where anything below 1.0 is a 'fail'....although I confess to not fully understanding: most circuits were reading over 50....), but after speaking with his board (I think NICEIC?), they told him a pass is a pass.
He signed off a 1 year cert, and we hope to see him later in the year to figure out the best way to make things safe.

Of course it is moderately possible they have always given a low reading: our last safety certificate was 10 years before, and wasn't nearly as thorough, IIRC!

Our fella spoke about getting SWA up to the attic and just having it feed power to sealed lights in the rooms below, with wireless switches in the rooms to light them up.
Any recommendations of brands of such switches, or examples where that has been done?
Or indeed, other ideas that any thorough electrician would be happy with?

We are keen to be proactive in looking into solutions, so we can add some value when we speak with him next time we are down.
Ideally not too expensive (or at least, the most cost effective solution would be preferred!) - we already removed the woodburner to massively reduce fire risk, after reading that thatches are no more likely to burn than other houses, but something like 97% of their fires were caused by woodburners, but if we have to spend to make it a simple "pass" in future safety checks, we will.

Thanks for taking time to read & any ideas!
 
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If there is only 3 rooms, locating the reason for the poor IR shouldn’t be too tricky
 
If there is only 3 rooms, locating the reason for the poor IR shouldn’t be too tricky
Not so sure about that: in a 270+ year old cottage.....who knows where the wiring all goes.....nothing is obvious! ‍

Any suggestions where he should start?!
 
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I live in a thatched cottage that needed a complete re-wire when I bought it eleven years ago.

Given the fire risk I decided to not have any electrical wiring in the loft so no ceiling lights upstairs. This also reduce insurance premium by a few percent.

If the wiring is suspect then it might be worth considering a re-wire.
 
Well, we may have to consider a rewire, although the downstairs didn't present much of an issue.
As I said up front, we would prefer the most cost-effective solutions first!
edit to add - yes, we do have the option to consider removing ceiling lights. Food for thought!
 
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this is the best place to start
Maybe, although given the wiring up there is all T&E, I don't think that would meet safety needs.

Hence the suggestion to get power along there in new SWA, wireless switches.
Nobody with any recommendations on those?
 
Maybe, although given the wiring up there is all T&E, I don't think that would meet safety needs.

Hence the suggestion to get power along there in new SWA, wireless switches.
Nobody with any recommendations on those?

I would want to understand the fault before remedial work ……
 
I'm not an electrician but was wondering if pyro, (MICC), could be more cost effective than SWA?
Use T&E into seald joint box just before it enters the loft, they pyro from the loft to the various service points?
 
I would want to understand the fault before remedial work ……
Maybe a good point, although if you remove *all* wiring on the 'faulty' circuit, which we likely need to do anyway, then I can't necessarily see the point seeking the issue there first....

Yes, sure, if I was an electrician and finding the issue wasn't going to cost me time, maybe of academic interest, but otherwise...?
 
Maybe a good point, although if you remove *all* wiring on the 'faulty' circuit, which we likely need to do anyway, then I can't necessarily see the point seeking the issue there first....

Yes, sure, if I was an electrician and finding the issue wasn't going to cost me time, maybe of academic interest, but otherwise...?

for all you know it could be a screw or nail butting into a switch drop
 
Don't overlook the small risk that the process of fault finding in the attic could create a spark and ignite debris.

Not all tradesmen have the knowledge or experience to work safely in a thatched attic.

Things like using a hand lamp on an extension lead and laying it on the debris, or the absolute idiotic plumber who was seen taking a blow torch into the loft. ( he was immediately thrown off site )
 

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