Vaillant ecomax pro 18e Fault code 13

[Vaillantstumped]

Hi,
New to the forum and hope someone can help me. I have a Vaillant ecomax pro 18e which appears to have an intermittent fault code 13.

Boiler runs during day with seemingly no problems. However during night/early morning when no demand it gets a fault code 13 and the red light flashes. The manual suggests this is the main pcb/interface pcb/fan. However generally just resetting the boiler starts it again (until the next morning), although it sometimes only restarts after a couple of hours. Has anyone heard of this before? I am reluctant to buy a new PCB for what seems an intermittent fault. Any suggestions?

System is vented with 3 way valve and mechanical timer.
Had some trouble with return thermistor a few weeks ago and changed it and worked fine until now.
The fan appears to work when first turned on.

Thanks

 

[Agile]

Intermittent faults can be very difficult to trace.

The ex Vaillant engineers may have some suggestions.

But in the meantime can you tell me exactly where you live and the times of day when this has occured recently together with the times you are using the heating?

Tony

 

[Vaillantstumped]

Thanks for a reply, appreciate intermittent faults are difficult, but thought perhaps someone might have had something similar.

I live near Southampton and the heating is usually on for a few hours in the morning and a few hours in the evening.

Although we do override the timings if it is cold. So 0630 - 0930, 1600 to 2100.

The fault seems to occur around 0300 to 0500, but not sure exactly as we are generally asleep, but I have seen it glowing green at 0230 and then heating not coming on due to fault that morning

Thanks Chris

 

[Agile]

Can you say exactly where? Or describe whats around you in very considerable detail. How about MF transmitting stations?

I am wondering if you are in a rural area where there may be a farm or industrial installation which may be causing fluctuations in the mains voltage or spikes added.

If you had a better UPS and could power the boiler one night from that then it could test my theory. Most UPSs do some filtering and the best actually regenerate a well stabilised mains from an widely variable input.

I prefer electrical/electronic problems.

Tony

 

[Vaillantstumped]

Hi Tony,
The area is urban with no major industries, businesses etc..
The problem has only started in the last few weeks and the boiler has been fine for several years.

I did read somewhere that the boiler tries to run a pump exercise program if it has not been operational for a while.

Alternatively, could it be the hot water cylinder thermostat operating in the night as the cylinder cools? I have had problems with the three way valve in the past and found a dry joint on the valve PCB/microswitch.

Regards
Chris

 

[Vaillantstumped]

Hi,
I have been trying various things, but basically the problem still appears to be the same. The boiler goes to F13 during the night, but will generally restart. The only exception is when I leave the heating ticking over all night.

Could this be due to the boiler internal temperature falling? I have examined the fault log and every time the boiler fails the screens indicate the boiler was not working and that the CH flow temperature is always 18 or 19 degrees.

I suppose the above could indicate a dry joint on a circuit board, or is there a setting/sensor that monitors low temperature?

Regards

 

[mchmav]

Vaillantstumped - did you get to the bottom of what your issue was. I have an Ecomax Pro 28e exhibiting the exact same behaviour. The only way I can clear the F13 fault in the morning (boiler is in the loft so it's much colder) is to gently tap the area where the main circuit board is. Does that suggest a dry solder issue on the mainboard?

 

[RabbitF13]

Did you find out what was wrong with your boiler Vaillantstumped/mchmav? We have exactly the same problem with initially an intermittent fault with the boiling flashing at night time, though we would not have seen the red light flashing in the day time as it is in a cupboard! Our heating engineer has not found out what the problem is and we have already paid out £232. The problem is not intermittent anymore and happens after every time we use the boiler either for hot water or heating - red light flashing and F 13 fault. We can still start the boiler by turning it off for a while and then restarting. Looking forward to your replies.

 

[mchmav]

I tracked our issue to a sticking relay on the main pcb. Ordered a new one off eBay for £85 fitted it myself and it's been fine ever since. Has your main pcb been changed already?

 

[ALCPlumbing]

Seriously guys you shouldn't be changing boiler parts yourself. Especially something like the pcb. It may seem as simple as plugging it in but the boiler should be re-commissioned afterwards to ensure it's operating properly. This means analysing the flue gases and testing the safety devices. This requires specialist knowledge and tools. It's not all about saving a few quid more about potentially saving the lives of yourself and your loved ones. Be smart not tight.

 

[TRYTOFIXANYTHING]

It's August 2015. Just had F13 on a Vaillant ecoMAX pro.
I replaced the main board and it fixed the problem. Don't know if there was a loose connection but the board has surface mounted chips both sides so I wasn't going to blunder around with a soldering iron. The replacement board cost around £120 (get the right one).
Mine was SYMS17.0 p/n 130837. Download the manual in PDF form from Vaillant if you haven't got one.
The only tricky step in replacing the board was getting the connections correct on the left hand side of the board. They are not keyed and you can get them out of position quite easily. Make a diagram first so you know exactly how they go back BEFORE taking any connectors off. Apart from this fault, which was easy to diagnose (the manual says F13 - main board fault), I've had no problems with this boiler. As a precaution, I also replaced the flow and return thermistors p/n 101771 (two of them), they are very easy to change and are about £15 each. They are the key components regarding the temperature control to the main board. They just clip onto the 15mm pipes at the top left corner - you don't need any tools).
Overall, considering the rather high cost of the main board, it was a cheap fix and well within the capabilities of most people.
Don't be put off by technical challenges folks.

 

[gigz]

It's August 2015. Just had F13 on a Vaillant ecoMAX pro.
I replaced the main board and it fixed the problem. Don't know if there was a loose connection but the board has surface mounted chips both sides so I wasn't going to blunder around with a soldering iron. The replacement board cost around £120 (get the right one).
Mine was SYMS17.0 p/n 130837. Download the manual in PDF form from Vaillant if you haven't got one.
The only tricky step in replacing the board was getting the connections correct on the left hand side of the board. They are not keyed and you can get them out of position quite easily. Make a diagram first so you know exactly how they go back BEFORE taking any connectors off. Apart from this fault, which was easy to diagnose (the manual says F13 - main board fault), I've had no problems with this boiler. As a precaution, I also replaced the flow and return thermistors p/n 101771 (two of them), they are very easy to change and are about £15 each. They are the key components regarding the temperature control to the main board. They just clip onto the 15mm pipes at the top left corner - you don't need any tools).
Overall, considering the rather high cost of the main board, it was a cheap fix and well within the capabilities of most people.
Don't be put off by technical challenges folks.

Can i ask, how did you test the CO/CO2/O2 ? And did you check the seal integrity on the cover ?

 

[simond]

This model can have the PCB accessed without touching any of the combustion chamber.

It is one of the rebadged Saunier Duvals, badged as a Vaillant and sold for more money than anyone would pay for an SD.

Similar to the just discontinued 4 series, the PCB box is retained by a piece of string.

 

[Agile]

Its actually retained by plastic spring lugs. The string is only a restraining support for the panel in the open position.

Most RGIs would take the view that after changing the PCB the combustion settings should best be checked.

Tony

 

[TRYTOFIXANYTHING]

The new circuit board has been in for 9 months now and there have been no further problems. The circuit board is underneath and well away from the combustion chamber. It needs to be cool.