Vaillant turbomax plus 824e hw & ch/timer problems?

[AdamEborall]

Hello folks. I am new to this site and its a bit of a long winded problem ive got but here goes...
I have a Vaillant Turbomax Plus 824e combi boiler in my flat and last year the on/off switch snapped off. Because my timer(analogue plug in type) had been playing up,ie not turning the heating off when it was supposed to,I just turned the switch to the on position(via the bit of the switch that was still sticking out of the microswitch inside) and simply switched it on & off at the plug.
Also in this time my hot water had packed up completely and i have got used to boiling a kettle to wash up. However,i finally got round to replacing the switch and now i seem to have got my hot water back? Its not perfect but if the boiler has been on for a while and you dont run the tap too fast then it is giving me good hot water(if you turn the tap on faster then it goes cooler but hot again if you slow it up?).
The timer still does not shut off the central heating though so I am once again turning the boiler on and off as and when i want the heating on/off.
I was wondering if anybody had any ideas? I thought it was down to the diverter valve at first but am now wondering if it is maybe a PCB problem?

 

[Agile]

My idea is that you are not very serious about having your boiler working properly.

There are thousands of engineers who will happily come and fix it for you.

If you are hell bent on saving your money then you can read up all the posts that I and others have made explaining the symptoms of a failed diverter valve.

From what little you have said I doubt that it is the pCB.

Its odd that you have not mentioned any fault codes!

Tony

 

[The831Bunny]

Hi

As Tony says Diverter valve sounds likely.

To test simply do only this: On your boiler fascia:

Turn your heating flow temperature fully anti-clockwise (heating off)

Turn your hot water temperature fully clockwise so the green 'warmstart' LED lights.

Let the boiler operate on its own, say overnight. If your radiators become hot at any time during this test, then your diverter valve requires replacing.

Cheers Bunny

 

[AdamEborall]

I am serious about getting my boiler sorted out,its just that funds have been very tight for a while and are actually getting tighter still.....
I would like to give it a go at getting it sorted myself if i possibly can,so any help would be appreciated. I f you think it sounds like a diverter valve problem then please point me in that direction?
I havent mentioned any fault codes because I dont really know what they are.. however before i run the hot water if i press "i" then S17 shows up, followed by S14 when the taps running and the S36 after i turn it off.

 

[AdamEborall]

Much appreciated Bunny,ive just done that and will see how it goes tonight and post a verdict tomorrow. Thanks for the advice chap.

 

[The831Bunny]

No Probs!

Hopefully you can get a positive conclusion. DV problems are always intermitent in nature!

Bunny

 

[Agile]

The earlier diverter valves had a series of holes about 3.7 mm diameter.

The later one with ( mostly ) new internals had holes about 6 mm diameter and these dont usually fail ( unless they still had the old internals! ).

Assuming its the old one, then you might as well replace it now as it will fail later even if its not failing now ( which it probably is ! )

Tony

 

[AdamEborall]

Cheers Tony. Mine is the one with the smaller holes,ive got a new one ordered now so just waiting for it to turn up then i can get it all sorted. Thanks for your help,its much appreciated.

 

[mickyg]

the fact that its took so long to fail is usually a sign that not enough inhibitor was used on install and interim repairs/service! god bless those cowboys