Valley Trusses onto existing rafters?

[RedHerring2]

When you position new valley trusses onto exisiting rafters, the trusses bottom chord is level, across the width of the timber, onto 30° pitch exisitng rafters.
So:
1. do you just fix them plumb, with the square edge of the bottom chord sitting on the rafter?
2. Fit the noggins so they are level for the bottom chord to sit on? or
3. cut a bit of packing at an angle, fixed to the rafter, for the bottom chord to sit on?

You surely wouldn't try cutting any kind of birdsmouth or chamfer in the bottom chord or in the rafter, would you?

There will be a piece of batten 300mm X 50 X25 fixed down the length of the rafter to locate the truss.

 

[noseall]

The diminishing valley sets sit on a thrust batten usually a piece of 100mm x 25mm bracing timber.

Some truss companies actually supply chamfered the thrust battens.

I hate fitting valley sets.

 

[theoldun]

I hate fitting valley sets.

Google reducing valley sets magic hammer nose.
Get hip, get loose

Red. Concentrate on level apex, as valley sets do not always work correct centres.
oldun

 

[noseall]

The blessed things are impossible to fit.

Once you have the peak level, you then plumb the thing up and your peak ain't level any more.

Then you have the trouble of them being level but out of centre, so that when you drop a straight edge along the rafter tops one side needs shoving one way or another.

I have tried numerous ways of fitting the flippin things but they are always a right royal pain.

Give me a traditional valley any day with a layboard and a ridge. Simple.

 

[RedHerring2]

The diminishing valley sets sit on a thrust batten usually a piece of 100mm x 25mm bracing timber.

Some truss companies actually supply chamfered the thrust battens.

I hate fitting valley sets.

Thanks for the quick reply noseall.
So does that mean that the thrust batten is chamfered to take up the rake of the rafter?

Valley set bottom chord are definitely level and square. I had to wait for delivery 'cos I wasn't sure what to expect.

 

[RedHerring2]

Google reducing valley sets magic hammer nose.

I tried this, oldtimer, but all I could find was stuff about 'reducing noses' to 'magic hammers'.

Oh, and this post, of course.

 

[RedHerring2]

I'm half expecting to have to fit packing pieces or firring strips.

I'm having to temporary fit one ply of the girder truss to determine the height of the wallplate, thus height of inner skin.
The existing wallplate sits on the outer skin.

 

[RedHerring2]

Some truss companies actually supply chamfered the thrust battens.

Aah, if I had read more carefully, I would have had the answer already.

Thanks

Effing weather today. Not bad this morning untill about 11.00, then started a little drizzle, which turned into a right good lashing, so stopped for lunch.
Just started again after lunch and so did the rain.

Just set the wallplate and restraints, the effing rain stops and the sun comes out.

It's looking reasonable though. When we had one ply of the girder truss up temporarily the matching of the exisiting rafters didn't look too bad.
There's only one face of the roof to match, the other face of the duo pitch is a new face going into a new valley and the hip will be a new face.

 

[noseall]

Effing weather today. Not bad this morning untill about 11.00, then started a little drizzle, which turned into a right good lashing, so stopped for lunch.
Just started again after lunch and so did the rain.

Just set the wallplate and restraints, the effing rain stops and the sun comes out.

It's looking reasonable though. When we had one ply of the girder truss up temporarily the matching of the exisiting rafters didn't look too bad.
There's only one face of the roof to match, the other face of the duo pitch is a new face going into a new valley and the hip will be a new face.

Oddly enough we had the same weather pattern....

Glad to hear the roof is going well Red. Can be a bit daunting, but patience and common sense always prevail when it comes to roofing.