Valspar paint peeling off

[ey143]

I'm having a torrid time with Valspar paint bought from B&Q. This is both their trade version and V900 paint. It's supposed to be scrubble paint but having put one coat on our plasterboard walls (they were skimmed a few years ago and had one watered down white emulsion paint put down before painted with the final valspar paint).

After one coat within 2 weeks, the paint scratches off with my finger nail. I'm getting a refund on the unmixed paint but am making a claim against the company.

I might switch back to Dulux diamond trade.

Has anyone else experienced this problem? The review on Trustpilot about valspar are bad with people saying similar things. Valspar have got me to send them samples of my paint and have claimed that after testing it, there is nothing wrong with it but they are agreeing to compensate me to the tune of under £1k, but likely to be more now after I showed them a video of the peeling and threatened them with legal action under the consumer rights act (I have home legal expense cover through my insurance).

They claim my issue is to do with mud cracking and applying the paint too thickly or too soon after the first coat, however, that is not the case as we have no applied a second coat .

 

[opps]

I have only used Valspar paints once. I personally didn't like the texture of the finish, but that is me.

Were the walls left unpainted for "a few years"? You mention applying a "mist" coat- one wouldn't do that with previously painted walls. Were the walls previously papered? if yes, that might explain the mud cracking. Residual glue will cause the paint to crack and would explain the lack of adhesion. The mist coat will not "block" any old glue. When you apply subsequent coats of emulsion, the water in the paint will reactivate the glue.

For what it is worth, I am impressed that you convinced them to give you a grand (fair play)... but IF my suspicions are correct, you don't deserve to be compensated by them (sorry- not what you want to hear).

Regardless, if faced with such a situation, I would use a DA sander sand sand all off the paint off (if it only had one mist coat and one coat of full fat emulsion). Doing so means that I would no longer need to worry about contaminants and can then apply a mist coat to the bare plaster.

Photos would help though.

 

[Chivas69]

Out of interest, the watered down white emulsion wasn't silk was it?

 

[ey143]

The walls were painted with a first coat of matt emulsion paint a couple of years ago.

 

[opps]

The walls were painted with a first coat of matt emulsion paint a couple of years ago.

Prior to that mist coat, had the wall been papered, or was it just bare/fresh plaster?

 

[ey143]

What is your definition of prepared prior to the first thin coat of emulsion to be absorbed into the plasterboard wall or skimmed brick wall?

 

[opps]

What is your definition of prepared prior to the first thin coat of emulsion to be absorbed into the plasterboard wall or skimmed brick wall?

I asked if the walls had been "papered" prior to the mist coat. I am guessing not, but I am not sure. Something else that springs to mid is the possibility of someone have used PVA on the plaster at some point. That too would explain the crazing/cracking.

 

[Wayners]

Durable which has a scrub rating don't like or has trouble sticking to chalky emissions like contract matt or cheap emulsion.
It pays you apply an acrylic primer or gardz first and you won't have a problem.

Other option is to apply the valspar if it's self priming (some are not) and leave 24h. Follow guide on tin. Don't back roll. Don't mess with it or it can start to pickle.
Don't apply a second coat for at least 12 hours preferably more.
Will need several days to fully cure to pass a scratch test.
These durable emulsions take longer to dry. They take longer to fully cure. They don't like dry surfaces because they can't settle and level out with the rapid moisture being drawn into surface.
People get troubles because they pop the lid and lash on without reading the application advise and knowing what surfaces they are applying paint to.

You also can't add water to some like the v700 from valspar. It's self priming but too difficult over contract matt imo so I prime. Then it applies so easy and nicely.

 

[ChilliBob]

What are people's experience of Valspar 700 over Valspar 700? - As stated in a previous thread, from tins left around I can see the whole house has been painted in this stuff, it still looks decent, and I've had to get some pen and stuff off some bits and it's looked alright.

Also, if I was going to fill some chips with tourpret am I best to go over them a couple of times with Valspar before painting the wall, or best with say Dulux trade supermatt etc?