Vauxhall Combo 1.7di

[Pokemon151]

Just looking for reassurance and advice.

Bought a 1.7di and has oil in water. Assuming a quick fix like when I had a berlingo, its not.
Changed oil cooler and still mixing.
Now, I want to attempt removing head myself but before I do that is there any other checks I can carry out to verify if it is the head. Also need to replace rocker gasket as a oil leak too.
It also looses water to the amount of the expansion take so I top up every journey.

Other issue is water on foot well and after researching found leaves etc so cleaned out now just needs a carpet.

The last time I did something like this was in school and fixing a 1.6, 3.0 fords

 

[Burnerman]

Can you find a garage that can do a sniff test...?
Basically, the air above the coolant in the expansion tank is analysed to check for products of combustion and if there are any, the testing liquid turns from blue to yellow.
As for the water in the footwell, look for leaves blocking drains below the windscreen. If it's coolant though, the heater matrix could be leaking.
John

 

[Pokemon151]

Hi Burnerman. Thanks for the input and it has been at a garage but not the combustion check.
Would that still be possible with oil in the water, sometimes a lot but then I drain and refill it just to prolong fixing it, but it will break soon.

As for the leaves yes been out tonight removing the flap on firewall so "things" move more freely out and already done matrix check when I removed the driver carpet.

No idea is a bad idea

 

[Burnerman]

The sniff test still applies with water in the oil.
Other tests.....with the engine hot and the expansion bottle cap removed, is there any bubbling inside? This is a sure indicator of head gasket problems.
If there is still oil present after a coolant flush, it is still bad news but not too conclusive as its impossible to know if all the oil was removed in the first place.
I'm wondering - has the vehicle overheated in the recent past to trigger these issues?
John

 

[Pokemon151]

Not tried the cap off part. Will try over the weekend.
Not overheated since I have had it and took it for a run tonight in peak traffic and gauge went slightly above 80. Happy with that and hot air blows out heater.
When I drained water it was from the left of engine on block. Next time I'll try right side on engine block as clean water came out on the left but that is circulation I assume?
I'm also checking and rechecking original hose clamps for leaks.

Daft( embarrassing) question but above the injectors is a diesel pipe that goes into the rocker cover. What are those washers called as 2 of mine are leaking.

Thanks John

 

[Burnerman]

An ideal coolant temperature is around 90 degrees so all seems well there....the cooling fan should come on automatically soon after that.
Can you post a pic of the pipe entering the rocker cover please? The top of the injectors will be joined by leak off pipes which return fuel back to the tank at low pressure, but I'm not sure of which washers you mean.
John

 

[Pokemon151]

Hi John.
Playing around this afternoon again. Let engine run to see if it bubbles and not.
I think the thermostat could be knackered as there seems to be no circulation. When I squeeze the pipes air an water comes out in the expansion tank.
Think I'm going to remove the thermostat tomorrow and hopefully I don't need a gasket to replace it, also the spanner light has decided to come on when I was letting he tick over, but then switched off an don again and it went. Used my OBD2 reader and no faults.

I am tempted to buy/ hire a car and fix this but for now it goes, but it is a challenge getting to the bottom of this.

Those pipes are the fuel rails and have ordered washers. Different to a more modern diesel.

 

[Burnerman]

If the thermostat has stuck shut, the main radiator will remain cool.....if its stuck open, the engine is unlikely to reach working temperature.
Its usual for the level in the expansion tank to rise when you squeeze the hoses.
The metal pipes leading to the top of the injectors either go directly to the injection pump or to the common rail tube, depending on the type of engine.
John

 

[Pokemon151]

Decided to buy a engine today complete with all auxiliaries. Went to collect and was kept waiting for 50 min so I left.
I have now bought the gaskets etc to attempt the head removal and if cracked, warped I'll go to plan B. £80.00 off Eb*y.
Otherwise slap it all back together with new head gasket, cross my fingers and hope she lasts.
Will also replace themo and fuel rail washers.

 

[Burnerman]

Now thats what I call getting stuck in....
Not all cylinder heads can be skimmed these days but I think youll be ok with yours.....but go for no more than a clean up really.
Best of luck with it, and we’d be very interested to hear how it goes.
John

 

[Pokemon151]

Waiting for the rain to stop so I can start the project.
New sump plug and EGR blanker.
I'll attempt to clear the leaves (tree) from the firewall so water can stop wetting my foot well.

 

[AlanE]

..... and EGR blanker.

Does't this become a MOT failure?

 

[Burnerman]

Im pretty sure you’re correct here.....if the tester can see that the egr system has been tampered with then its a major issue.
John

 

[Pokemon151]

No, not a MOT failure. Still got till Jan 19.
Just want to fix it and not pay the garage ££££
On my fuel rail where it enters the rocker cover it bolts on. There is a flanged (knuckle) that it seats into a pipe. This is leaking and other than tightening how do I stop the fuel leak?

 

[Burnerman]

Can you post a picture of the leaking joint, please?
If it's a common rail engine, the pipes are supposed to be replaced once tampered with. If the pipes go to the injection pump then tighten them first but there is a chance they have been distorted.
John