Views welcome - stripped bathroom walls prep for refit

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Thank you for looking at this post. Thanks for replying to this as its probably a repeat.

Bathroom being refitted. Now stripped out back to brick on two walls and lathe plaster on two walls.

What's ideal way for wall prep now for tiling and fitting?

For example :

1) Plaster and skim everywhere, then fit and tile
2) tank then plasterboard, then fit and tile
3) aqua panel? (and then whatever happens)
4) other.

Thank you for looking.
 
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I'm working on a similar project.

My plan of attack is:

Walls would be best battened and covered with moisture resistant boards which can just be taped and filled at tapered edge joints. You can then paint direclty on to the boards with a decent bathroom paint.

Aqua panel over bath area walls if you've got a shower over the bath. You can tile directly on to aqua panel (infact i think its the recommended way)

If you do skim I'm not sure tiling over the skim is recommended.

If you're back to lathes could you not take them off and board this area also?

No expert by any means I;m sure others may have different ways but this is how I'm working.

Hope it helps.
 
If tiling floor to ceiling then moisture resistant plasterboard on most areas and aqua panel in wet areas (shower cubical and around bath). You can tile directly onto either surface.

What's behind the plaster and lathe wall? Might be worth taking back to brick or stud and then fitting the new surface.

Always consider the weight of the tiles and grout relative to the background as there are limits to that.
 
Probably wise to remove the lath's anyway before overboarding. Also not a bad idea to drop some insulation between the exposed studs.

Finally, if you are going to be hanging anything on the stud wall, it's a good time to fix some timbers/noggins in the desired spots - you'll feel mighty happy by the ease of hanging which your forethought provided :)
 
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Dear tnotty, Dear kingandy, Dear calorific,

Thank you for your helpful replies.

Now considering aqua panel or glasroc H tilebacker to walls around bath which will also have a shower, this will be tiled, and then moisture resistant board elsewhere which will be painted (seems necessary to skim first).

Further consideration now is that the long side of the bath and the one short end of the bath will against walls which are both the external solid walls of the building. So the external walls are going to get cold which result in condensation / excessive condensation on the tiles.

Both aquapanel and glasroc h tilebacker have insulation qualities so would really like to dot and dab (with wall adhesive) either of these on to the inside faces of the external solid walls.

Any comments very welcome.

(Would note that this bathroom fitting is probably temporary for about a year until an extension is built.)

Thank you for looking.
 
If you batten the walls for fixing the aquapanle/board you can infill the batten spacing with polystyrene sheet insulation material. it may help reduce the cold spots.

Also easier to batten if its only a temporary fixing dot and dab will be a pain to get off the brickwork.
 
Far far better with batten and board, and the amount of room you lose is minimal. Dot and Dab in my opinion is cheap and very nasty. As Tnotty says, with battens and board, you can insulate too which is a bonus nowadays. It'll cost a bit extra doing it that way, but well worth it. ;)
 
doing similar myself and using the siniat tile backer aqua board, everywhere i've spoken to has advised that dot and dab is not recommended alone for aqua board as it struggles to bond.

what i've found works great is insta stick and a few mechanical fixings either into a stud wall or plugged into the brick - i cant bring mine out with batons due to the size of the room.

what i'm struggling to confirm is what to use on the ceiling, i'm looking to have this plastered then painted and getting conflicting info if to use normal plasterboard or not. for the same reason as dot and dab its been recommended not to plaster over aquapanel in large areas.
 

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