Vokera Linea 24 - Not firing for hot water, but ok for CH

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Hi,

Been having a little trouble with my 10 year old Vokera Linea 24.

Problems started a week or 2 back, seemed to be after having a radiator moved.
Here's the manual - http://vokera.co.uk/wp-content/uplo...8_installation_and_servicing_instructions.pdf
All the parts mentioned are on page 52 of the pdf (manual page50)

Initial problem was no hot water coming from taps. It would start luke warm if the heating was already on, but then run cold. The boiler would fire up fine every time the tap was turned on. The heating has been, and still is, running fine all through these problems.
After reading on here I hoped it'd be the motorised valve for the diverter (part 2905). So I got a brand new one from ebay, and fitted it. No change. But now I could see the motor working when i switched between hot water and heating. I hadn't checked the other one properly.

Next I moved to the diverter (3 way?) valve.
In the shop I went to they suggested I change the diaphragm first, as it would be the more likely culprit. They said it was on the right hand side of the 3 way valve. Now in the manual it mentions nothing about a diaphragm. The item they were pointing at was described as a pressure switch (2044). So i thought, the diaphragm must be in there, it's about the right size. The manual was vague about removal, and there were 2 plastic screws facing out, so I removed one of them, it came out, along with a spring, and behind it I could see some copper for what I assumed was a switch. So I screwed the plastic screw and spring back in. Couldn't work out how to remove it, and wasn't convinced I'd find a diaphragm in there anyway. So I moved to the left side where the motor attaches.
I replaced the metal seating plate (7134), the needle and plastic bobin (part of kit 01005127), spring (6862) and all associated o rings and gaskets.

This seemed to go well, everthing i took out was very dirty, and I hoped the new stuff would be much more free to move.

But as soon as i repressurised and started it up I had a new problem. CH still fired up no problem, but now turning the tap would no longer fire up the flames. I can hear something in there, the fan maybe? but no flames, so no hot water. Then i had error 04 come up. At first when I just turned on the tap. But then after the heating had been on 5 mins the led would go red and error 04 would stop the system.
I had a fiddle with those odd plastic screws on the pressure switch. Couldn't find any reference to them in the manual, or on the internet. But it cleared the 04 fault so I had heating again.

So I thought, great, swap the pressure switch (2044). I found out it's been replaced by a much smaller part with no odd screws (10028141), so today I've fitted one of them. Now the old pressure switch had 2 white wires going to it, and I'd marked one so I knew which was which. But with the new switch I had no idea which wire was for which. But figured the wires were totally unmarked, both just plain white, so maybe it wouldn't matter. Anyway, i've tried them both ways round and still no difference.

So the problem still remains. Boiler works fine for heating, fires up every single time. Cuts out when water is hot, comes back on when it cools, no problem.

But for hot water it simply won't fire any more. No more error codes at all, pressure is fine, but no hot water, other than for 30 seconds luke warm if the heating has been on.

I'm not a plumber (clearly!) and hoped that I'd be able to fix this quite easily. (that was when i thought it was the motor). So obvioulsy I'm not going to be able to check anything on the gas side. But is there anything else I can do before having to shell out for a pro? Having been made redundant at christmas money is rather tight.

Thanks in advance :)
Bogg
 
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As the front has been down the whole time I've been messing I've not been looking at the temp display.

Now I've noticed that when I turn on the tap the temp jumps to 96, so that would be why it doesn't want to warm the water up any more?
When i shut off the tap it drops instantly to 20 degrees.

Would that be a thermister problem? If so which one, and is it an easy replace?
 
Your best bet is to get someone who knows what they are doing.

Tip: never take advice on boiler repairs from someone behind the counter at a plumbers merchants.
 
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Thanks for the tip scatman. I'll certianly bear it in mind next time. They seem to know less than me.

I got a new thermistor, or NTC sensor as Vokera call it. #10027352
Fitted it, needed a deep reach 13mm socket, the old one was blue and the new one red.

And it's worked. Boiler is back up and running perfectly. The hot water from the tap gets hotter and quicker than before. I'm very pleased.

I'm pretty sure the initial problem wasn't with the thermistor though, I'd have noticed the temp jump up as I pulled hot water, as the original problem had been going on some weeks. But now all the parts have been swapped, quite easily & cheaply I might add, it's working better than ever and hopefully will do so for many years. And i'll know what to look for next time. Maybe even google my own thread :)
 

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