Hi, I own a 1989 740 GLE auto and have a starting problem. This has been going on for some time now and has become a major inconveiniance. The problem is that even if i have been driving it all day, if i turn it off it will only re-start with a jump. When i turn the ignition, i'm not getting anything on the key. Not even a click from the solenoid. Since this problem started i have replaced the solenoid and the starter, the battery and the altenator but this has not fixed the problem. Even though my battery is fully charged (i have had it checked and it's fine) i'm not getting anything at all, yet as soon as i connect jump leads from another vehicle, she fires up straight away. I'm sure this is something minor and hope that one of you guys can help as i really don't want to bee throwing more money at it replacing parts that are ok.
Volvo 740 starting problem
- Thread starter jimcognito
- Start date
Sponsored Links
- Joined
- 23 Sep 2010
- Messages
- 2,203
- Reaction score
- 484
- Country
Put a voltmeter across the battery when the car is running. Red lead to positive terminal (+) and black lead to negative terminal (-). When you rev the car you should have approximately 14volts on the voltmeter. This will tell you the car is charging the battery.
If the car does not start straight away after stopping it.
Yet starts with a jump then you have a bad connection between where you are putting the leads and the battery terminals.
This may be up at the positive terminal of the battery or it may be a bad negative connection to the body of the car (known as a bad earth).
Have you corrosion on the inside surface of the connection on the positive terminal of the battery?
It depends where you are putting the jump leads?
If you are placing the black lead on the engine, then its a bad earth.
If the car does not start straight away after stopping it.
Yet starts with a jump then you have a bad connection between where you are putting the leads and the battery terminals.
This may be up at the positive terminal of the battery or it may be a bad negative connection to the body of the car (known as a bad earth).
Have you corrosion on the inside surface of the connection on the positive terminal of the battery?
It depends where you are putting the jump leads?
If you are placing the black lead on the engine, then its a bad earth.
funnily enough a friend said tonight that it sounds like it could be a bad earth connection so i'll be checking that out tomorrow. As for the voltage output, 14 volts no problem. Checked it last week as i've only just started to use it after a long lay off and it was only kicking out around 8 volts so replaced the alternator and battery yesterday, thinking that this would solve the non-starting problem that has been on going for a couple of years now but no joy. It used to be just every now and then and sometimes i'd try it with no joy, only to try again 20 minutes later and it fired up straight away but now it only seems to go when i jump it from another vehicle.
Did you find a solution to your starting problem?
I have a similar problem Starter sound week, running slow, having to try a few times before it started. Then it decided to not work yesterday. Will have to investigate again. A replacement starter is over 100$.
I have a similar problem Starter sound week, running slow, having to try a few times before it started. Then it decided to not work yesterday. Will have to investigate again. A replacement starter is over 100$.
Sponsored Links
Check the voltage across the battery with the starter engaged, if it drops to only a few volts either the battery is faulty or its not charging properly, there should be a bit over 14v with the engine running if the charging system is OK.
Peter
Peter
Another useful test that dates back to the days of yore is to connect a voltmeter between the engine and the chassis to check for successful earth bonding connection.....ensuring that any earth straps are in place, of course!
John
John
