Walk In Shower Reseal

[emmaamme]

Hi, currently taking the silicone off my walk in shower to reseal it and wondering if the bottom of the shower glass should be sealed on the inside?
It was sealed by a mastic man when the house was built and he did seal the inside.
I'm thinking that all the grime etc would get in under the glass if it's not sealed on the inside as there is a bit of a gap underneath it.
Also, the vertical where the metal profile meets the wall was sealed originally. Should that be sealed too as i'm thinking same scenario there with the grime?
Thanks.

 

[Burnerman]

Good morning Emma
In this case I would certainly seal the inside.......any grot that comes in there is sure to turn black in no time.

With some anodised aluminium enclosures, the inside isn't sealed so that any water getting in there has the chance to run out again.......not so with your glass panel.
Regards
John

 

[emmaamme]

Thanks John, it's a job I've been putting off for ages as I hate siliconing. So far it's taken me 2 afternoons to take the silicone off and still not finished. Definitely getting a mastic man in next time!

 

[Burnerman]

Not my favourite pastime either - I find that silicone eating compounds just end up as a gooey mess, but these tools:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-smoothing-tools-straight-joints/92313#product_additional_details_container

Can give you a good finish with the new sealant.
Regards
John

 

[Madrab]

Certainly seal the bottom of the glass on the tray with a small bead, that provides extra support for the glass panel, just not on the aluminium wall plate/channel support.

As far as removing the old silicone is concerned. A nice sharp blade, cut straight down from the top and flat in from the bottom to remove most of it, then I use a paint brush reviver fluid and leave that on for a while then scrape along with the blade again. Only need to remove most of it, a little left behind won't cause an issue and will be covered by the new silicone. Key is clean the area well with a solvent that will evaporate without residue, I actually use Isopropyl but meths, brake cleaner, etc will do.

 

[emmaamme]

Not my favourite pastime either - I find that silicone eating compounds just end up as a gooey mess, but these tools:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-smoothing-tools-straight-joints/92313#product_additional_details_container

Can give you a good finish with the new sealant.
Regards
John

I did invest in a Cramer tooling kit which is great although not so good when the joints aren't always at 90 degree angles unfortunately.

 

[emmaamme]

Certainly seal the bottom of the glass on the tray with a small bead, that provides extra support for the glass panel, just not on the aluminium wall plate/channel support.

As far as removing the old silicone is concerned. A nice sharp blade, cut straight down from the top and flat in from the bottom to remove most of it, then I use a paint brush reviver fluid and leave that on for a while then scrape along with the blade again. Only need to remove most of it, a little left behind won't cause an issue and will be covered by the new silicone. Key is clean the area well with a solvent that will evaporate without residue, I actually use Isopropyl but meths, brake cleaner, etc will do.

That's probably where I've been going wrong - trying to remove every last trace of the pesky stuff. I did buy some multisolve spray which has been handy for softening it.
Any particular reason for not sealing the vertical on the wall plate?

 

[johnny2007]

Shower screens are usually sealed only on outside, unless otherwise recommended by the manufacturer.

 

[Madrab]

Any particular reason for not sealing the vertical on the wall plate?

Just about allowing any water that may get in to leech out, less silicone to grey/blacken and have to renew and it only really needs sealed externally anyway.