Wall fixing

D

dextrous

Am shortly to strip my bathroom for a complete refurb. Removing tiles and plaster back to brickwork, and dot and dabbing MR board prior to tiling / half skimming above dado and above shower enclosure (which will be tanked).

Now the problem - one wall is constructed from 50mm lightweight blocks, which is a complete waste of space to screw anything into (such as sink brackets and shower enclosure wall plates). So was intending to affix 18mm ply to this and over(MR)board this to allow for easy screw points. Can I rely solely on board adhesive for both layers for this? - new lowered ceiling studs will be fixed to the top of this to assist wedging into place, and a 50mm stud wall along one edge of the shower wall to hide pipework will provide additional support.

Tiles will be 300 by 200 (probably wickes) plain white.

Any suggestions would be welcome, including whether I need to use WBP board under MR board / tanking (within shower area)
 
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dextrous

There are many fixings available to use in plasterboard that can take a fair weight have you thought of trying some?

Also makes sense to use wpb if you are going to the trouble of using moisture board, have you thought about using aqua panel this is becoming more and more common on building sites rather than moisture board.
 
I am intending to use wpb below the MR board to partly reinforce the thin blockwork below and to avoid using plasterboard rawlplugs to attach the shower enclosure and basin to. Also, have considered using aquapanel within the wet area, which will require mechanical fixings to the wpb, but given the shower will be 1200 by 800, am not sure that the cost or durability benefits weigh heavily in its favour. Also the added weight gives me (a probably unfounded) concern
 
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You can fix tiles directly to the ply so need for a secondary layer.

I would use a polymer adhesive or a foam adhesive to fix the ply and supplement the adhesive-fix with a few screws.

This will stiffen the wall no end and afford you unlimited fixing points. Don't be shy with adhesive.
 
Thanks. Any particular recommended adhesive spring to mind? I will have to overboard the ply with MR since outside the shower it will be half tiled to dado height and skimmed for painting above.
 
So, have stuck the ply to the wall with the foam adhesive. Is there a knack to getting the foam dot/dab to stay on the wall as you apply it? Went all over the place, mostly downwards, so at least the base of the boards will have stuck firmly. Tried applying it to the ply first - no joy here. However, like I said, it's up now and fingers crossed!
 
Now the problem - one wall is constructed from 50mm lightweight blocks, which is a complete waste of space to screw anything into
If you want to fix to a soft or crumbly wall, do this:

Drill a hole which is a bit deeper and wider than the plasplug you want to use. Blow and wash the dust out of the hole. Get some NoMoreNails or similar. Put the nozzle deep into the hole and fill it from the back, slowly withdrawing the nozzle. When it is nearly full, push the plasplug in (putting a long screw a couple of turns into the plasplug helps you hold it) so that the end of the plasplug is at, or just below, the surface. Smooth the nomorenails with your wet finger

Leave it to set overnight

You will be amazed to find that the plug is now firmly fixed and when you screw into it it will give a good fixing

this is the best DIY tip I have learned in 20 years.
 
If you want to fix to a soft or crumbly wall, do this:

Drill a hole which is a bit deeper and wider than the plasplug you want to use. Blow and wash the dust out of the hole. Get some NoMoreNails or similar. Put the nozzle deep into the hole and fill it from the back, slowly withdrawing the nozzle. When it is nearly full, push the plasplug in (putting a long screw a couple of turns into the plasplug helps you hold it) so that the end of the plasplug is at, or just below, the surface. Smooth the nomorenails with your wet finger
Agree a useful tip. Have used it before also, when I've drilled a hole too big in masonry and the rawlplug starts to spin when screwing into it. :eek:

Very often find using a masonry drill on hammer action if it doesn't go through readily, it sometimes seems to make the hole a bit oversized. :confused:

Found you only need let it dry for a bit before it will stop an offending screw from turning it. :D
 

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