Wall Plate for Outbuilding

[potatobrain]

Hi all,

Having been a bit of a lurker I thought I would post to see if anyone has sensible suggestions on where I should locate my timber wall plates.

I am based in a very exposed location on the west coast of Scotland. I am replacing my old slate, rafter constructed roof on my out building with a tile and truss replacement.

I have had architects drawings done and truss design done and delivered.

However, I have noticed that I am going to run into an issue with my hip rafters and my wall plate. In that the wall plate, if it is located on the inner edge of the wall, will cause the hip rafter to intersect with the wall head as it's so wide. I was going to use heavy duty hold down straps to hold the wall plate in place, but this won't work if I relocate the wall plate to the outter edge.

I am wondering what the best option is, build up the wall plate on the inner edge, or move the wall plate to the outer edge and use a different hold down method (suggestions needed)

Photo attached to show width of walls

 

[DAZB]

This is a good site for wallplate detail although the trusses design may dictate where it needs to be placed.

Building Guidelines | Trusses

Bearings Unless the trusses are specifically designed, the truss must be supported directly on the ceiling chord immediately below the intersection of...

www.housebuild.com

 

[magico]

Did an extension over my garage with a hip roof, wall plate on block inner with straps every metre I think. The brick outer skin is a coarse of brick lower than the inner so the trusses miss it, is yours level? Been a while since I did it but that’s what is remember

 

[magico]

Sorry only just looked at pic, always thought the inner course of block needed to be higher; could be wrong though

 

[potatobrain]

The roof is now up and getting tiled. I ended up putting the wall plate on the inside of the wall and securing as per building regs. There is a gap between the outside of the wall and the bottom of the truss. I elected to just use a deeper fascia board to overcome this. It is only a garage so doesn't need to be belt and braces.

 

[ree]

OP,
Well done for overcoming the roof difficulties - and what a great outbuilding you have there.
What kind of roofing cover you are going to use? The valleys & flashings will require attention to detail.
My opinion FWIW of the white painted wall is that the white glare spoils the austere effect of the rest of the courtyard - just my ten cents is never paint masonry or render.

I have brilliant memories of childhood holidays on the West Coast - the magic sea and mountains and the open kindness and generosity of the people.

 

[potatobrain]

Really appreciate the kind words, it has been the hardest project I have undertaken so far!

For the roof covering, I am going to use Marley Edgemere Duo, for a faux slate look. The original roof was random course slate, but 90% of it had gone hollow and flakey. As it's a garage, I'm trying to keep the budget sensible, going to pop a few velux in to brighten up the inside whilst I am at it.

Unfortunately the building had been rough cast previously, frost has gotten in and blown out a lot of the stone. The photo makes it look better than it is. The walls are a hodgepodge of concrete block and original stone. I am going to render over it and try and aim for the West Coast look of a white building with black bandings round details (think the buildings on Isla). Might not be to everyone's taste, but hopefully keeps the building going for a while yet!

 

[mrrusty]

When I built our garage I priced up synthetic slate, and in the end went spanish real slate. There wasn't much in it. I used slate hooks too, which I think for DIY slating are easier (and perfect for wild scotland)

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

Waterproof varnish, job done!

(Joking)

Looks lovely, will look amazing