Wall Plugs for Kitchen Wall Units (plasterboard / block)

[stl]

Hi,

I am looking to install a MAGNET kitchen wall unit. The wall is plasterboard with a gap behind and then breeze block.

I would be grateful if someone could advise on the appropriate fixings?. The units come with long thick screws but the majority of plugs I have seen appear to fix to the plasterboard only and not the blocks behind.

My initial thoughts are that it would be good to screw into the plasterboard and breeze block as the loads could be quite high.

I would be interested in hearing what people normally use in this situation?

Many thanks

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

Hi,

I am looking to install a MAGNET kitchen wall unit. The wall is plasterboard with a gap behind and then breeze block.

I would be grateful if someone could advise on the appropriate fixings?. The units come with long thick screws but the majority of plugs I have seen appear to fix to the plasterboard only and not the blocks behind.

My initial thoughts are that it would be good to screw into the plasterboard and breeze block as the loads could be quite high.

I would be interested in hearing what people normally use in this situation?

Many thanks

you will have to cut a slot at fixing height,fix in a 3"x2",a bit off trial and error needed





x

 

[foxhole]

If they are thermalite blocks you will need special plugs or they will pull out.
You can mark out the bracket position, drill and fit plugs to blockwork, ignore plasterboard and gap, then tap in a spacer the depth of the board and gap, tubing makes a good spacer or you can cut out the bracket position about 80mm square and use a timber spacer to depth required.

 

[pinenot]

if you tap the wall you will hear a change in tone, this is the timber strapping affixed to the wall to carry the plasterboard (it also provides a venting gap) Once you've identified the location of the straps,mark these (you can go one step further if you wish, tap a thin nail through the plasterboard to locate the strapping edges in a location that will be covered by the wall unit, then mark the centers) these straps will provide enough support to fix your wall unit to and the breeze block will take any excess of screw coming all the way through.
I advise you check the wall structure to ensure if it's breeze block construction and not concrete blocks, if the later you need to advise.

Best of luck

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

if you tap the wall you will hear a change in tone, this is the timber strapping affixed to the wall to carry the plasterboard (it also provides a venting gap) Once you've identified the location of the straps,mark these (you can go one step further if you wish, tap a thin nail through the plasterboard to locate the strapping edges in a location that will be covered by the wall unit, then mark the centers) these straps will provide enough support to fix your wall unit to and the breeze block will take any excess of screw coming all the way through.
I advise you check the wall structure to ensure if it's breeze block construction and not concrete blocks, if the later you need to advise.

Best of luck

There is not much chance of the brackets for the cupboards lining up with the wall battens ,which may not exist if its dot and dab

 

[pinenot]

There is not much chance of the brackets for the cupboards lining up with the wall battens ,which may not exist if its dot and dab[/quote]



Lets establish which. Knock in a long panel pin or reasonably thin nail, slowly. you can reasonably assume the wallboard is 1/2" (12.7mm) thick therefore however far the pin can go in before it touches the wall behind minus 1/2" will be the depth of the cavity. Up to 1.2" - 3/4" it's reasonable to suggest it's dot & dab, more than this it will be a strapped wall as I described earlier. The distance apart for the straps is either 600mm for 1/2" or 400mm for 3/8" plasterboard (wallboard).

After we establish this the way forward can be established...by the way can you post a few photos, especially of the back of the wall cabinet, is it only one cabinet or is the new one to abut against another?

Cheers

 

[stl]

thanks for responses to date!,

I will check the wall in due course. The panel is to butt up against another and the fixings seem to be standard ones which can be adjusted two ways from inside the cupboard.

I have also found DryLine Pro www.drylinepro.com which may do the trick but somewhat pricey. Has anyone used these?

 

[pinenot]

The reason for asking if this cabinet was to be placed against another is that this will offer an additional load bearing factor.
The plastic plugs shown in your link will replace the adjusters provided with the cabinet (just so as you know)
You will have to ascertain the void between wall and plasterboard face in order to establish the length of fixing required, so that a larger proportion is in the wall, for proper support. Also screw fix the abutting sides of the meeting cabinets together ensuring they are lined up in all directions, oh and clamp these two sides together just clear of the screw heads, this prevent any unsightly gaps showing down the leading edge.

Personally I start with a 2" x 1" baton pined/glued to the wall (double sided tape is also good) lined up along the bottom edge - place the cabinet on this (minus the door) - align & clamp the edges (as above) - screw the cabinet walls together - then drill and fix the cabinet back to the wall (ensuring that if the two way aligning hangers are replaced, any resulting void is filled with a suitable baton) [/img]

Good luck

 

[stl]

After marking out locations and drilling some pilot holes, I have 29mm from front face of plasterboard through void before hitting brick. Based on previous responses this appears to be dot and dab.

Wall units are as below

Untitled

• stl
• 8 Jan 2013
• 1

The screws provided with the fittings are 60mm long, so this only leave about 30mm into the blockwork. Is this likely to be sufficient?

I am thinking of using the fittings supplied (as photo) with the DryLine Pro fixings etc. (Can't see how this would work without the bracket?) unless anyone has any better thoughts?

The idea of screwing to adjacent unit is good as this was evident when the unit was held up on the wall - luckily there sees to be good adjustment on the unit fixings.

Thanks again!

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

Use the brakets that come with the cupboard ,choose which ever wall fixing method suits you ,your being led down a blind alley

 

[pinenot]

If the walls are of breeze block construction the fixings are to short, if concrete blocks they will suffice. You should have approx 2/3
of the total length of the fixing in the wall to provide a good support axial.

Cheers

[If the last comment (by another) was aimed at me, I would put my 40 years +, joiners experience up against anyone else's, latterly my role was solely in construction management.]