Washing machine - Aquarius 1100 WM63 won't start a 2nd wash

[marssnickers]

I've a (I think 5 year old or so) Aquarius 1100 washing machine.

Recently, it has been very temperamental in starting.

I can do a wash then, attempting to do another soon afterwards, it will not start

I can leave it off for 30 minutes or more sometimes, put the power on and set the program dial, press the start button - and it may then start (but after a minute's delay).
Sometimes I can't get it to do a second wash at all until the next day ....

I'm not sure if there is anything possibly blocked and confusing the programmer (if so, I don't know where to look), or is it a duff timer control/programmer.

Thanks for any help.

 

[rocks1]

try a gentle thump at 3 oclock on the door if it starts door lock no good

 

[marssnickers]

try a gentle thump at 3 oclock on the door if it starts door lock no good

Thanks for the pointer.

I've unscrewed the striking plate from the front, and the switch wotnot fell behind - so I'm going to have to investigate trying to easily get at it and check it.

It does seem the most likely, and nothing I'd considered.

Hopefully it's not too tricky to check and fix.

 

[marssnickers]

try a gentle thump at 3 oclock on the door if it starts door lock no good

I've managed to refit the door lock (not very tricky of course ), but now I wonder how I can actually test the lock to see whether it is dead or not.

Any ideas ?

 

[rocks1]

the easy way is put mc on when it goes off again just thump door at 3 oclock it will then start up if no one has replaced lock it is about 8 years old it will need replaceing when they go they take the netural on the timer with a bang

 

[marssnickers]

the easy way is put mc on when it goes off again just thump door at 3 oclock it will then start up if no one has replaced lock it is about 8 years old it will need replaceing when they go they take the netural on the timer with a bang

I've messed up something, the door lock doesn't seem to fit properly anymore. I replace the screws and the plate at the front and screw into the lock mechanism behind. But the catch slider isn't in the right place anymore, so doesn't slide when the door shuts .....

Perhaps I've broken the door lock, maybe there's a bit fallen off I can't see,

I need to look for a replacement I expect ... googling now ....

 

[rocks1]

try ebay, you could try and remove lock and refit

 

[marssnickers]

try ebay, you could try and remove lock and refit

I've got the piece off, and I think it may be a dead unit. I'm not sure exactly how it works, but when I slide the plate with the hole into the body and using a meter, I can't get anything to show that a connection is made across any of the terminals (assuming that's how it works).

Hotpoint WM63 interlock

• marssnickers
• 9 Jul 2008
• 1

Front side

Indeed, when it's in place next to the door catch plate, the hole is in the same position as the door plate. So I can't actually see how the door catch can move the slider.


In the 2nd picture, circled is a plastic catch that seems not to do anything. If I hold it down, it prevents the slider from going out fully. However, there is nothing to hold this catch down.

Hotpoint WM63 interlock

• marssnickers
• 9 Jul 2008
• 1

Reverse side

[/img]

 

[rocks1]

the secound pic is to release door from inside there is a plastic blob to press ,when the door lock is in situ the door lever silver bit locks into place pushing the mech across. the date code in top right hand corner poss have 97 98 or 99 on it means when it was made inside the lock is 2 biometal stips that close on heat , two red wires are live black is neg hope this helps

 

[marssnickers]

the secound pic is to release door from inside there is a plastic blob to press ,when the door lock is in situ the door lever silver bit locks into place pushing the mech across. the date code in top right hand corner poss have 97 98 or 99 on it means when it was made inside the lock is 2 biometal stips that close on heat , two red wires are live black is neg hope this helps

It's 98.

So, the reverse plastic lever doesn't do anything then I guess - because I can't see how it will work seeing as it is already "sticking up".

The door lever should push the mechanism across, but it doesn't seem to now.

I see, it's a heat mechanism, that may also explain why it's not working.

As I mentioned, should using a meter across the terminals show action when the mechanism is slide across ?

I suppose it's possible that there is a different fault altogether, and not the interlock. The problem is finding out how far the power gets .....


Thanks for your help to date

 

[marssnickers]

the secound pic is to release door from inside there is a plastic blob to press ,when the door lock is in situ the door lever silver bit locks into place pushing the mech across. the date code in top right hand corner poss have 97 98 or 99 on it means when it was made inside the lock is 2 biometal stips that close on heat , two red wires are live black is neg hope this helps

To add to my previous post, I see the underneath lever *is* used. When I slide the mech across, there is a "stump" underneath another hole which clearly pops up preventing the lock from closing.

Hotpoint WM63 interlock

• marssnickers
• 9 Jul 2008
• 1

Small pop-up

I just need to find out now why the slider isn't sliding when I close the door. I seem to be fitting it correctly.

 

[marssnickers]

the secound pic is to release door from inside there is a plastic blob to press ,when the door lock is in situ the door lever silver bit locks into place pushing the mech across. the date code in top right hand corner poss have 97 98 or 99 on it means when it was made inside the lock is 2 biometal stips that close on heat , two red wires are live black is neg hope this helps

Sorry to reply again, but I'm now convinced it is the interlock.

If it has a bi-metalic strip, then this has clearly failed now. As the machine was slow to start a 2nd cycle (or not at all), and indeed sometimes slow to start an initial load - this seems to show that the bi-metalic strip is faulty and not heating up, or taking far too long. So, the machine effectively believes that the door is still open.

I shall buy a new one. We have a local shop that sells all sorts of machine items, so I'll try there first - if not, I'll order a genuine part online.

Once again, thanks for the help.

I'll report back after I fit the new interlock. Fingers crossed.

 

[rocks1]

lock is about a tenner poss cheaper ,its ten years old good luck let us know how you get on

 

[marssnickers]

lock is about a tenner poss cheaper ,its ten years old good luck let us know how you get on

Well, I got one from a local shop (£14.50), strange name for a shop, but there you go ..... and about as cheap as I could realistically get online for a genuine part inc. postage (and another day without washing )

The part has a date of 2/07, the other had 5/98.

I fitted it in less than 5 minutes, put the program on and pressed the fire button.

After 10 seconds, it started as it should.

Recently, as I sort of mentioned, it has taken 10s of seconds to even start up initially.

Ok, I've not done a 2nd wash as it's not currently needed.

So, currently I am very happy, and I thank you very much for pointing me in the direction I'd not even considered - by suggesting I gently tapped the door by the catch.

Thanks.

 

[rocks1]

we got there in the end good luck