What fixings for a kitchen wall cupboard?

[andyste]

Hi all, the cupboard alone is 25kg, and the wall is breeze block with a 50mm gap between that and the plasterboard. Looking for suggestions as to what fixings to use here please...

 

[Hot&Cold]

breeze block with a 50mm gap between that and the plasterboard.

Are you sure its 50mm ?

 

[andyste]

Are you sure its 50mm ?

Yes! Seems excessive for dot n dab so could it be battens? It’s in the utility room and the wall in question is the back of the garage. It feels like there is insulation in there so maybe that’s why the gap is so big?

 

[Tigercubrider]

You will need to get a good wall fixing.
There is a system that uses a steel rail fixed to the wall and then the cupboard hangs off that.
Normally you would screw it to the brick wall but you could use short offcuts of pipe as spacers to get a firm brick fixing through the gap

 

[mwatsonxx]

Drill through into the garage and use 6mm rod and steel plates

 

[andyste]

You will need to get a good wall fixing.
There is a system that uses a steel rail fixed to the wall and then the cupboard hangs off that.
Normally you would screw it to the brick wall but you could use short offcuts of pipe as spacers to get a firm brick fixing through the gap

The cupboard already comes with metal plates for hanging it off. My main concern is what fixings to use - they need to be long enough to get through the gap and into the brick but I’m worried about the 65mm (if you include the pb thickness) each fixing will stick out of the wall by, and with all that weight on them.

 

[Doggit]

Having found the 2m hanging rails, I would never use the small brackets again. Now you might get one fixed across the studs, but sods law says the end will hang half way between 2 of them. If you try and use the small brackets on the wall as it is, you risk a cupboard (or two) coming off the wall. Your best bet is to take the plasterboard down, and fix a piece of 3x2 between the studs where the brackets will go, and then plasterboard the wall back up.

 

[John D v2.0]

My way was to cut out a rectangle of plasterboard from the existing wall, used frame fixers to attach a sheet of plywood to the wall, then fixed to that.
The plywood will be hidden if you measure right.
You might need to screw a second layer to build up the thickness

 

[Paintguy]

The cupboard already comes with metal plates for hanging it off.

In case you misunderstood, those hanging rails replace the small plates supplied with your cupboards. Imagine lots of them stuck together in a long rail.

This gives more fixing options as they can be screwed into studs/battens which don't necessarily line up with the edges of your cupboards.

 

[WabbitPoo]

yes I'd second getting those long hanging rails...makes life 300% easier (or more!)

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=cabinet+hanging+rail

You can then find a stud (sounds like what you have) to screw them to.

Will that do it?

 

[andyste]

yes I'd second getting those long hanging rails...makes life 300% easier (or more!)

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=cabinet+hanging+rail

You can then find a stud (sounds like what you have) to screw them to.

Will that do it?

The rail sounds seems like my best bet, so I'm ordering one online tonight (I was amazed to find that they aren't listed in the likes of screwfix, toolstation, etc.).

I've found three studs where the cupboard is going. The first stud is in just about the right place for the l.h. end of the rail, but the last stud is about 8" in from the end of the rail. By screwing it here, will that last 8" of rail be rigid enough to take the cupboard hanger/plate on the end of it, or could it twist/distort? (I guess I could always run a long screw through the end of it and into the brickwork as a bit of added support).

And one more silly question - can I just screw the rail to the studs with wood screws? One screw or two in each? Assuming a 2" wide stud would two screws be too close to each other/the edges? I wouldn't normally give it a second thought but I'm a bit nervous given the amount of weight involved!

 

[JohnD]

I use the long rail. I'm sure that you should not hang from it beyond the last screw (maybe OK for an inch or so).

I paint mine to match the wall, and with 900mm wall cabs it is high enough to be out of eyeline.

 

[Tigercubrider]

Drill through the plasterboard to brick at the end, cut a short length of copper pipe to match the depth and use it as a spacer

 

[Doggit]

I certainly wouldn't leave 8" unsupported - great recipe for a disaster. I can get 180mm concrete screws from my local wood yard, and I'd use one of those. Wood screws are fine as long as you have a wide enough head on them, and you can either drill straight in, or 2 screws angled into the centre if the holes are on the edge.