What is the best item to replace a leaking TRV?

[chainsaw_masochist]

This Honeywell Home VTL120 valve has a small onging leak. All rads on this system have this model of TRV but it is this one alone that is regularly manually turned from fully closed to fully open (when the occupants use this particular room). The rest of CH system is controlled by a Hive remote thermostat and all of the other rads are just left on their chosen ie never manually regulated.

I was intending to replace the TRV with a manual valve but I am not sure if this is acceptable under current regs. If I am required to stick with a TRV is there a better model on the market that is able to withstand regular manual operation.

Thanks for any help.

 

[RandomGrinch]

...a non leaking one?

Sorry, I couldn't resist!

Given the state of that valve though, I would definitely replace it.

Only a DIY'er, but I've never had any issue with Drayton TRV4's, even when used a lot (by a compulsive toddler!).

 

[oldbuffer]

1. Its leaking from the body, so needs to be replaced.
2. You will need to drain down the system, remove old valve and replace with new.
3. Agree with RandomGrinch, Drayton TRV4s are what I use with no trouble. However, if you have the same valves elsewhere and want to preserve the look, you can just replace with the same. Screwfix 9449H.

 

[nicam49]

If there's a header tank then you can buy a kit of 2 rubber bungs which you use to create a vacuum in the system and you don't have to drain down the system. Only works with a header tank, tho'

 

[chainsaw_masochist]

RG: Yes, I agree that the title was just begging for your reply. Think I’ll try to obtain the Drayton TRV4 as an alternative as it sounds like it has been properly road-tested by your toddler.

OB: Well I will probably use a freezing kit to save time here.

N49: No, it is a direct setup with combi-boiler.

Thanks, guys.

 

[JohnD]

You don't need to drain a modern sealed system, including a combi.

You release the pressure, at the drain cock or a bleed nipple. Open the system at one point only, with the drain cock and bleed nipples, and the valve at the other end of the rad shut, and there will just be a dribble.

Water won't run out unless you have another opening for air to go in.

 

[HERTS P&D]

Just drain it down and replace. Don't forget the inhibitor.

Andy

 

[chainsaw_masochist]

You don't need to drain a modern sealed system, including a combi.

You release the pressure, at the drain cock or a bleed nipple. Open the system at one point only, with the drain cock and bleed nipples, and the valve at the other end of the rad shut, and there will just be a dribble.

Water won't run out unless you have another opening for air to go in.

I will not be draining the system. Due to having a sufficiently long run of pipe it will be easier to use the freezing-kit as, in addition to the valve leaking, it also lets-by when (supposedly) closed.

...Don't forget the inhibitor. Andy

Sentinel X100 in the bag.

 

[HERTS P&D]

Have you used a freeze kit before?

Is there enough pipe to get the jacket on?

Andy

 

[chainsaw_masochist]

Have you used a freeze kit before?Andy

Yes, thanks.

Is there enough pipe to get the jacket on?Andy

Yes, thanks.

 

[spareshunter]

We don't freeze pipes on a domestic systems not worth the agro especially on hot summer days. Do as John D recomends, it's a no-brainer, and lots cheaper plus .............................eco-friendly.