What product to caulk around fitted wardrobes?

[Sizzla]

Hi, this is my first post. I registered just to ask this question that I've been puzzling out for months.

I have fitted wardrobes, there is a gap around them between 1-3mm against walls and ceilings. They look ok but they'd look better if they were caulked.

My first thought was silicone but since they're against painted walls that's a no no.

Next thought was hybrid sealant, but i read that the white discolours over time and it's messy to apply.

So my final idea was decorators caulk but I don't want to have to paint it and I know caulk goes grubby when left unpainted.

I decided to do a test spot with nemesis caulk because it's super bright white and doesn't shrink. and I really like the look of the bit I've done. But I worry about the longevity of that since it's pretty soft and if I want to wipe the wardrobes down I'm worried it will mess it up.

Please can someone tell me what I can use?

The final pic is the test patch and look I'm going for

 

[DiyNutJob]

Caulk will crack. Hybrid sealant is probably the best option as it shrinks less and won't rip the paint apart. Hybrid is paint-able. So painting after discoloration is a possibility. I used some inside the house and don't notice any colour change. When I applied it on oil gloss painted surface, the sealant yellowed. When using hybrid, masking tape is your best friend plus beading tools.

With your gap close to the ceiling, I would seal the gap flat rather than using a bead

 

[Sizzla]

Thanks for your reply. I'll get a tube of hybrid and give it a go. I'm pretty good with silicone and profiling tools, is hybrid that much harder to use?

With silicone I can just use the flat part of a fugi spatula to scrape excess off but I'm guessing I can't do that with hybrid?

I have three bedrooms all with fitted furniture on two walls each so it's gonna be a real pain

 

[DiyNutJob]

Hybrid is more sticky. So when you lift the forming tool off, you might drag some with you. If you make mistakes with hybrid it's more messy. But if you master it, it's likely the best sealant you can get. It would not fail where silicone would. Also, it will stick to itself. That means you can go over a seal again and again until satisfied. But the curing time is long on the everbuild I use: 24 hours. This also means longer working time, which suits me. I am OK to take several days to do a seal in multiple sections. For example if I need to do a seal with a 90 degree turn, I do 2 straight sections over 2 days.