What Router bit??

[jrussuk]

Hi all
I think this is a silly question but here goes,

I need to cut a 6mm groove into a new kitchen draw front so that the bottom of the drawer fits into the back of it. I have bought a Router to do this job but am confused what type of router bit will do the job. Can anyone tell me what to ask for in a DIY shop?
Many Thanks

 

[big-all]

6.35 twin flue strait bit work from the cut surface using a baton to run against
http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/productlist/4/153/Two_Flute_Straight.html


or a bearing bit to run off the bottom edge padded out with extra timber for support
http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/productlist/4/121/Slotters_and_Groovers.html

 

[Jackrae]

Your best bet, on the basis that you are unfamiliar with routing , is to get hold of a TREND catalogue at this address

http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/trend/content/content_handler.php?record_type=Downloads

This contains lots of useful information and downloads - including links to dvd/videos.

 

[EightyTwo]

Trend dealers sometimes hold "training days" for routers. I know my local hardware shop does them from time to time. You never know, yours might do one this weekend!

 

[jabuzzard]

6.35 twin flue strait bit work from the cut surface using a baton to run against
http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/productlist/4/153/Two_Flute_Straight.html

Most routers come with a parallel fence, which saves the hassle of fixing a batten to run against, which can be difficult on small pieces. It also helps if you have more than one draw front to get slots at a consistent place. I would however recommend practising on some offcuts of melamine faced chipboard first. Also have two cutters and reserve one for the actual draw fronts as chipboard tends to blunt cutters quickly.

Note you don't want to make the grove all the way to the edge of the draw front. Set the depth gauge, then start say 10mm from the edge plunge the router into the draw front run along the draw front stopping short of the far edge.

The real trick with a router is to maintain firm pressure at all times. That is make sure you are pressing the parallel fence firmly against the edge of the draw front at all times while cutting.

 

[Dave54]

If you're new to routing (or not maybe ) a "false fence" (just a piece of PAR) screwed to the parallel fence to give a continuous surface may help. Make sure that that the rotation of the cutter working edge in the direction the router is being moved is tending to pull the machine into the fence (or batten) rather than pushing it away from it.