What size breaker for removing walls

[phatboy]

Hi all,

If I go ahead with a self-build extension, I have a couple of 4" thick block walls to remove, and a large section of 215mm block wall to remove. Might take down the garage myself too.

I already have this, which was excellent for chasing, but wonder if it's man enough for taking walls down?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001TX1BJQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's 5.2Kg, and delivers 5 joules of power.

Should I be looking for something bigger? It will no doubt be used for other bits and pieces, like breaking chunks of foundation away and breaking up blocks.

Thanks
Tim

 

[^woody^]

Hammer. Chisel. Crowbar. Shovel.

 

[Charlie George]

Rather than use a decent drill for demo work i bought a Titan SDS from screwfix for £60,had it two years before it bit the dust,amazing tool for the money,and if it breaks within 12 months return to Screwfix for replacement.
Check out the reviews.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb653sds-5-9kg-electric-sds-plus-drill-230-240v/6846h

 

[JohnD]

I got the one with the (poor quality) steels and accessories, it did the job I needed it for and still works.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-tt...us-drill-9-piece-accessory-kit-230-240v/97533
2 Year Manufacturer's Guarantee (T&Cs Apply)


What more could I want?

It is a bit heavy, though.

I'm sure the Makita is very much better, though.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

The Makita will stand years of abuse on building sites and parts will be available for mamy years to come. So good for trade users. Not so sure that a DIYer would get the use out of it, though

 

[Notch7]

this size breaker:

 

[johnny2007]

16 pound sledgehammer and a big whack.
My cousin 20 years ago took down an extension with one blow in the right spot.
To be honest it wasn't the strongest construction I saw.

 

[Old Salt]

I demolished an old brick garage with a sledge. Only used a breaker to cut up the concrete lintels so I could transport them to the tip.

 

[phatboy]

Hammer. Chisel. Crowbar. Shovel.

I was looking for the less labour intensive method, especially for the 9" block-on-flat wall.

Rather than use a decent drill for demo work i bought a Titan SDS from screwfix for £60,had it two years before it bit the dust,amazing tool for the money,and if it breaks within 12 months return to Screwfix for replacement.
Check out the reviews.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb653sds-5-9kg-electric-sds-plus-drill-230-240v/6846h

Would be great, but being down in Jersey there is no Screwfix, and they won't ship here! Other shipping options are of course available, but the warranty would be useless

The Makita will stand years of abuse on building sites and parts will be available for mamy years to come. So good for trade users. Not so sure that a DIYer would get the use out of it, though

I already have the Makita, but not sure if it is gutsy enough for demolition? It's done great job chiselling and coring, but never tried it with demolition, except some concrete steps which it failed at!

I'm willing to invest in a used, decent brand item, for the convenience of having it there whenever I need something, as opposed to hiring for a day / week.

Thanks

 

[Deleted member 174758]

The difficulties with buying this sort of stuff secondhand are that:

1. This sort of stuff tends to be trade use so a lot of it will be 110 volt (site regs) and therefore would need a transformet

2. By its nature demolition equipment often has s very hard life in trade use

3. In my experience at least trade often tends to get shot of demolition gear when it is shot although you might get lucky

4. Without having used the stuff it can be difficult to assess if a piece of kit is in good working order or not. Bit like buying a new car you are unfamiliar with

I generally borrow breakers from our brickies. Favourites are Hilti TE1000 and Kango 950 (Milwaukee)

 

[cdbe]

If that Makita you have won't split the joints on a few concrete blocks I don't know what will.

 

[^woody^]

I was looking for the less labour intensive method, especially for the 9" block-on-flat wall.

It's all about technique.
Hammer/chisel/bar can be the easiest and most efficient method for most walls. You need to work it so that the wall and gravity does most of the work, not knocking one block at a time off from the top, and not standing there for ages holding a machine to vibrate your soul away thinking its easier.