What would you do here - repairing loose dry dash round door ?

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Not sure whether this should be here, in doors and windows, or decorating !

I finally got round to looking at the front door. The frame had movement when we bought the house, luckily it turned out to be a simple "not fitted properly" problem rather than any of the more serious problems that went through my mind. Needless to say, the bodge job was by one of the very well known (at the time) nationals ...
20240630_175619.jpg20240630_175557.jpg20240630_175630.jpg

On the right, there were a couple of bits repaired with smooth render like on the left, the rest of the misding section was loose but stuck to the frame with silicone so moved with the frame. Additionally, the render repairs have been done badly and "filled in" the texture for another couple of inches.

Colour doesn't matter as it'll be getting painted, so it's down to texture. I don't think it's possible to repair without leaving a join visible - not when it's going to be seen close up.
So I was thinking of running a cutting disk up the internal corners and knocking off the rest of the front facing part.
Then do you think a smooth finish would look out of place so redo it in dry dash ? Smooth I think I could manage myself, dry dash I think I'd need help as I've really struggled with the other bits of repair I've tackled - I guess there's a knack in getting the surface right so the spar will stick.

Lastly, what's the best way to leave a gap (for silicone) between the edge of the render and frame ? Or would you render down onto the frame, make sure it's keyed well into the brick, and hope that's going to resist the frame movement when the door gets slammed ?
 
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Not sure whether this should be here, in doors and windows, or decorating !

I finally got round to looking at the front door. The frame had movement when we bought the house, luckily it turned out to be a simple "not fitted properly" problem rather than any of the more serious problems that went through my mind. Needless to say, the bodge job was by one of the very well known (at the time) nationals ...
View attachment 348569View attachment 348571View attachment 348570

On the right, there were a couple of bits repaired with smooth render like on the left, the rest of the misding section was loose but stuck to the frame with silicone so moved with the frame. Additionally, the render repairs have been done badly and "filled in" the texture for another couple of inches.

Colour doesn't matter as it'll be getting painted, so it's down to texture. I don't think it's possible to repair without leaving a join visible - not when it's going to be seen close up.
So I was thinking of running a cutting disk up the internal corners and knocking off the rest of the front facing part.
Then do you think a smooth finish would look out of place so redo it in dry dash ? Smooth I think I could manage myself, dry dash I think I'd need help as I've really struggled with the other bits of repair I've tackled - I guess there's a knack in getting the surface right so the spar will stick.

Lastly, what's the best way to leave a gap (for silicone) between the edge of the render and frame ? Or would you render down onto the frame, make sure it's keyed well into the brick, and hope that's going to resist the frame movement when the door gets slammed ?
It's incredibly difficult to retrospectively attach render successfully to an impacted jamb. It's also very difficult to dash small areas of render.
All I can say is, get your mix bang on and wet all surfaces.
 
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Thanks. The more I think about it the more I think this bit needs a pro.
I've patched lots of small areas - holes drilled for cavity insulation, old vents, removed pipes, etc. People keep saying how good it looks, but I can see every one. And this bit will be very in your face as you walk up to the door.

I really struggled to get the spar to stick. Tried everything - from dryish to barely stays in place wet, spraying to wet it last thing before applying the spar ... Tried hurling hard - just goes everywhere and bounces off ... The only way I could get it to stick was grab handfuls and press them on which is not practical for a large area.
 
Yes, I planned to take it back to the corner.
I can't make my mind up whether it would look naff if I smooth rendered it which would be easier. Oh decisions, decisions ...

I'm thinking I need to leave a gap (for sime silicone) between tbe render and frame - otherwise one good slam and it'll knock the render off again. Best way to do that ?
 
You could use something thin that you can take out once cured. Thin ply or vinyl flooring which is also about 5mm
 

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