where can I buy gate valve stem extensions

[catnipsta]

Could somebody please tell me where I can buy gate valve stem extensions?

I am retiling my bathroom and replacing the plasterboards with aquapanels. However, this results in the gatevalves being flush with the new tiles, this preventing access to turn the valves.

many thanks in advance.

 

[seco services]

why would you want gate valves behind tiles for anyway ?
what happens when they leak and need changing ?

 

[Sylvan Tieger]

Could somebody please tell me where I can buy gate valve stem extensions?

I am retiling my bathroom and replacing the plasterboards with aquapanels. However, this results in the gatevalves being flush with the new tiles, this preventing access to turn the valves.

many thanks in advance.

Normally a Gate valve is a positive shut off and NOT suggested for controlling fixtures in a bathroom.

They make ( in civilized ) countries something called a TILE STOP which is actually a long stem GLOBE type of valve as globe valves are used for throttling. These valves come with a chrome sleeve and an escutcheon and can be serviced when properly installed

I can fully understand why in some cases a tile stop would be the better choice as one valve can control all the fixtures such as a shower body when one does not want to use an integral stop (shut off)



Ideally one would want to use an angle or straight globe type for the shut off for the toilet and sinks BUT then again when someone wants to install a pedestal sink and do not want to see any valves then the tile stops are the way to go.


If cost is a concern then tile stops are cheaper as your using two valves to control all fixtures and the valves can be placed in a closet as the branch work is then piped from the valves.

DO NOT use a gate valve to throttle as it will cause excessive velocity ( piping erosion) and excessive noise and the gate valve stem will become weak.

Gate valves are designed to be full open or fully closed

 

[ChrisR]

Catnipsta, why would you want visible gate valves? Visit a shower fittings site and you'll find a variety of smarter valves for various purposes.

They make ( in civilized ) countries something called a TILE STOP

Maybe they do in the USA but that's not a term you'll hear in the UK.
I have little idea what he's talking about, or why he feels the need to give lectures on questions which weren't asked.

 

[seco services]

cause hes a typical yank
ramble on and get excited about nothing

 

[JohnD]

Guns kill, the exact same way a fork makes people fat

I was just thinking, they must have a lot of forks in America.

 

[catnipsta]

The gate valves are used as isolation valves for the feeds to my shower mixer, and will be situated below the bath, thus out of sight.

The reason for me using gate valves over ball valves is the bore size in order to minimize flow restriction to my shower mixer.

Even if I do use normal isolation ball valves (with or without handles) I would still have the same problem of accessing the valve control as they would still be within the tiled wall.

The alternatives are either to replumb the feed pipes so that the gate valves protrude further out of the wall (but lose some flow due to the additional bends) or to leave adequate holes around the gate valves for ease of access.

I would prefer gate valves with extended stems for a tidy look, even if they are below the bath and out of sight.

thanks for all the replies..

PS..I am a Londoner..not a Yank...

 

[seco services]

PS..I am a Londoner..not a Yank...

who said you was ?

 

[Agile]

The gate valves are used as isolation valves for the feeds to my shower mixer, and will be situated below the bath, thus out of sight.

The reason for me using gate valves over ball valves is the bore size in order to minimize flow restriction to my shower mixer.

In spite of what they may do in the US, gate valves are not intended for isolation purposes on mains water. A stop cock should be used for that.

There is a very simple solution to your problem.

That is to use a full bore isolation valve and just leave a screwdriver hole to access it.

Tony

 

[Softus]

There is a very simple solution to your problem.

That is to use a full bore isolation valve and just leave a screwdriver hole to access it.

This is exactly the reason you should be physically restrained from doing any general plumbing.

All valves have a spindle and a gland, and are therefore leaks just waiting to happen. On anecdotal evidence, the less frequently a valve is used, the more likely the gland is to leak on the day you use it, so the last place that you want to put a rarely-used spherical valve is behind a tile.

A full-bore lever valve, accessible from under the bath, would be my personal weapon-of-choice in this situation.

Look at this beauty:-



I know DZR is overkill, but don't ya just wanna take it to dinner and show it a good time?

 

[Agile]

This DIYer thinks that its a good idea to fit valves so if he must then just let him.

Its mildly amusing to me that he wants to add valves which are failure points just in order to isolate a mixer shower which will in itself also be tilled over.

Apart from a cathestrophic failure of the shower its difficult to think of a purpose for those valves.

I would place all isolating valves in the loft, behind an access panel or under an accessable floor etc. but NEVER behind any tiling.

Tony

 

[Softus]

Apart from a cathestrophic failure of the shower its difficult to think of a purpose for those valves.

Servicing the mixer valve is a purpose that strikes me as being more obvious than a kick in the crotch.

I would place all isolating valves in the loft, behind an access panel or under an accessable floor etc. but NEVER behind any tiling.

That's a sudden, but laudible, U turn.

 

[catnipsta]

[/quote]Its mildly amusing to me that he wants to add valves which are failure points just in order to isolate a mixer shower which will in itself also be tilled over.

The shower mixer is Hansgrohe that uses the iBox, from what I see, apart from the pipe connections, I have full access to the mixer parts within the iBox by removing the mixer surround plate.

Apart from a cathestrophic failure of the shower its difficult to think of a purpose for those valves.

I think I rather be safe than sorry..especially if that failure is that catestrophic

 

[lagunaglen]

I personally would site any valves in a place they can be accessed if needed, wherever that may be, floor, ceiling, cupboard ,etc and if all else fails and you cant find any iso then turn off the friggin water or snatch it

 

[Sylvan Tieger]

This DIYer thinks that its a good idea to fit valves so if he must then just let him.

Its mildly amusing to me that he wants to add valves which are failure points just in order to isolate a mixer shower which will in itself also be tilled over.

Apart from a cathestrophic failure of the shower its difficult to think of a purpose for those valves.

I would place all isolating valves in the loft, behind an access panel or under an accessable floor etc. but NEVER behind any tiling.

Tony

Tony, Why not check out what "Integral stops" are


They are PART of the shower body and are behind the shower plate, Thus once the handle and two screws are removed that hold the plate the valves are readily accessible WITHOUT removing any tiles

Once these integral stops are closed the shower body can be serviced with NO other fixture being shut off.

Once the defective parts are replaced the integral stops are turned back on the valve tested shut off the cover plate and handles replaced and all is well.

Shame your plumbing is still way behind the times as your space programs and medicine.

I cannot help but notice when any British actor smiles the large gaps between their teeth so one has to wonder if the dentistry is so behinds the times how bad the plumbing has ti be