Where to switch..

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Hi all and thanks to those who answer,

I'm renovating a 3 bed Semi and currently getting prices for a full rewire. However, I have had some thoughts and wanted to run it by a few on here before I speak to the next electrician.

In my current house I have Phillip's hue bulbs linked to Alexa. Although this has been good, it's obviously a retro smart fit out and has it's issues. I'm not sure what I want in this new house and for now will continue to use the bulbs. However, I want to keep my future options open and I'd like to install a smart lighting controller.

What I'm actually asking is, is it acceptable to do all lighting switching connections at the CU or at a convenient location? I.e not loop in rose or switch but loop in at a central location, therefore providing a central area to install whatever controller is picked down the line.

Obviously for now the connections will simply be wired conventionally just at a single location.

It's only a small house so the additional length switch runs wouldn't have an effect (happy to be corrected).

Many thanks.
 
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Running cable from each light location to a central controller does have many advantages.

For me the main advantage was being able to use Extra Low Voltage ( 12 volt ) circuits to switches to operate relays This meant I could use 6 and 8 core alarm type cable to the switches, thus avoiding the need to chase out walls for several 230 volt cables.

Having intelligence in the central controller allows multi-way switching, lights coming on and at pre-set times, ringing the door bell turns on the porch light, and many other convenient functions. No Alexa and no wireless linked equipment.

I designed the control processor PCB myself as I am a retired electronics designer engineer and that is what I love doing.



bedroom controller_2.jpg processor.jpg
 
Thanks Bernard. Impressive work!

I intend for it to be wired in 1/1.5mm T&E and to carry 230v for the time being though. I suppose what I'm really getting at is would UK electricians be happy to wire like this? I spoke to one and he seemed a bit reserved but got the feeling he wanted to price for a 'standard' type job.

Anyone have any views? Or has wired a house like this?
 
No reason it cant be done that way, i'll be a slight increase in cost for additional cable length and time to pull it in etc. If going to the effort of it, consider how many cores you'l ever want to each place. Eg. Do you need a three core to a 3 arm fitting, so you can have two switch wires so you can switch it to one two or three lamps etc, hw many cores do you need at each switch?.

The joints ideally would not be in the CU (would end up making it rather packed) instead consider an enclosure with DIN rail terminals located adjacent.

As long as you pick a competant contractor and ensure you come across as knowing what you are asking for, I cant see why they'd not be happy to give you a quote based on how you want it done, I suppose it can scare some off though thiking you are going to be a difficult customer
 
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Thanks Adam. Yes, you're last comment is exactly what I'm concerned about!

Any other comments on my approach?

Would electricians on here have any issues with my proposal?
 
It's becoming more common to bring lighting wiring back to a central point (you can get lighting wiring centres now, same idea as the heating wiring centres that have been available for ages). Some electricians will tut and try and convince you to do it the trad way, some very naughty ones might take your money to do it your way & then bang it all in the trad way anyway so make it very clear in whatever tender documents you draw up that one end of every lighting cable (switch or luminaire) must terminate in your box wherever it ends up.
If your plans involve any lighting circuits with intermediate switches then think about declaring them as smart or relaycontrolled from the outset (so you can use 8 core alarm cable rather than shedloads of 1mm T & E- each intermediate switch requires 4 cores, running all them back to the central point could create a massive cable bundle. 2 way switching is not so burdensome (3 cores to each switch) though again there are advantages in using ELV at the switches and a relay in the box (reduces RFI emissions which can apparently be problematic if anyone uses an induction loop hearing aid setup). Avoid the temptation to use CAT5 network cable for the relay controls unless you get the proper termination blocks for the stuff (cores tend to snap in terminal block).
And then a small warning...there are plenty of smart 2 way switches on the market that (in their app) will correctly display the state of the lamp (rather than the state of the switch). Not sure if there's a smart version of an intermediate switch available but there ought to be. Things get a bit murkier if you want to combine analogue switches with 'smart' devices- unless you have some sort of PLC on the job (Arduino seems to be favourite these days) then you may struggle to get the app to report lamp status rather than relay status (important with 2 way light switching).
Have fun.
 

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