White paint for stairs and landing

[sxturbo]

My usual paint is zinsezi perma white, I get on well with it and like the finish.

However from experience when I painted my kitchen cupboards a few years back it's not very hard wearing and so I don't think it will be any good for my stair case.

The paint o. The stairs is peeling and sticky from the previous owners.

I was going to order benjamBe Moore paint but decided it's not quite in budget at the moment and put off by reports of it yellowing.

Is there any other decent paint that is reasonable price, hard wearing and doesn't go yellow.

Also any recommendations on sanding the stair case what sand paper to use and do you do it by hand or use sanding blocks

 

[Anthony118]

I painted my stairs using Ronseal diamond, just followed their prep instructions with 120 grit block and was really happy with the results. Been a good few months now and I am still happy with it and most importantly its still white!

 

[opps]

Is there any other decent paint that is reasonable price, hard wearing and doesn't go yellow.

All oil based paints will yellow if there isn't sufficient day light. I am not aware of any waterbased paints that are as durable as oil based paints.

Two pack paints (2K) and cellulose based paints don't yellow and are more durable than both of the above but they normally need to be sprayed and are more toxic.

I mainly work with oil based eggshell, I don't know why but it seems to be far less likely to yellow than gloss, or rather it seems to take much longer to yellow and yellows to a lesser degree.

 

[opps]

Oh, cork sanding blocks are cheap and an effective way of applying even pressure when sanding. They cost about a quid and last ages. Definitely get one for the flat surfaces

 

[sxturbo]

I painted my stairs using Ronseal diamond, just followed their prep instructions with 120 grit block and was really happy with the results. Been a good few months now and I am still happy with it and most importantly its still white!

Was that ronseal floor paint?

 

[sxturbo]

I'm thinking of using this, is it cheap nasty paint?

https://www.toolstation.com/leyland...HKJF6sW7hLYUPIqAJtWbkHUMlHS2MMHhoC1D4QAvD_BwE

 

[opps]

From time to time I use Leyland emulsion but only over fresh lining paper. I would imagine that you will need to apply a few coats but it will do the job.

As a professional decorator I would use a better quality paint because the material costs are miniscule when compared with my labour costs

 

[sxturbo]

Thanks opps.

Still stuck on paint. Its all low light, so oil based isn't really an option, I don't mind painting it every few years but it's not a task I relish.

 

[Notadecor8ter]

Dulux trade satin/egg best for me. Go with a Bin Primer undercoat as well.

 

[opps]

Dulux trade satin/egg best for me. Go with a Bin Primer undercoat as well.

I like BIN but it is a mare to apply evenly.

This week I have been on site hand painting MDF end panels for three wardrobes. The site decorators have used BIN on all of the previously varnished oak doors and architraves prior to applying two coats of Dulux oil based eggshell. They clearly didn't sand back the varnish before hitting them with two coats of BIN. 6 weeks later, none of the door edges pass the fingernail test. Both the BIN and eggshell have chipped off.

The BIN was applied by roller, the satinwood by brush. The finish is awful.

Mind you, they used Dulux Trade Supermatt everywhere. Supermatt is great for newly plastered ceilings because it covers so well but crap for walls as it is virtually impossible to wipe clean. Nice fellows but the word "tosh" springs to mind.

In short, BIN is not as amazing as Zinsser would have you believe. it is my go to product for water stains or for painting over surfaces that are likely to react if one uses a water based paint but something as cheap as oil based undercoat is often equally suitable if you don't mind waiting longer for it to dry and cure.

I honestly cannot think of any (non time related) reason to use BIN on woodwork rather than oil based undercoat (or primer) if you want a durable finish (assuming that you are willing to prepare the surface). You can sand oil based undercoat with relative ease. BIN is extremely difficult to sand flat.

 

[sxturbo]

I like BIN but it is a mare to apply evenly.

This week I have been on site hand painting MDF end panels for three wardrobes. The site decorators have used BIN on all of the previously varnished oak doors and architraves prior to applying two coats of Dulux oil based eggshell. They clearly didn't sand back the varnish before hitting them with two coats of BIN. 6 weeks later, none of the door edges pass the fingernail test. Both the BIN and eggshell have chipped off.

The BIN was applied by roller, the satinwood by brush. The finish is awful.

Mind you, they used Dulux Trade Supermatt everywhere. Supermatt is great for newly plastered ceilings because it covers so well but crap for walls as it is virtually impossible to wipe clean. Nice fellows but the word "tosh" springs to mind.

In short, BIN is not as amazing as Zinsser would have you believe. it is my go to product for water stains or for painting over surfaces that are likely to react if one uses a water based paint but something as cheap as oil based undercoat is often equally suitable if you don't mind waiting longer for it to dry and cure.

I honestly cannot think of any (non time related) reason to use BIN on woodwork rather than oil based undercoat (or primer) if you want a durable finish (assuming that you are willing to prepare the surface). You can sand oil based undercoat with relative ease. BIN is extremely difficult to sand flat.

I've got both zinsser cover stain (oil based primer) and the BIN shellac primer.

I got the cover stain .For soffit and fascia a couple of years ago and the bin as we had old single glaze metal windows as the house was in a conservation area and we had constant mould issues. The bin and the perma white worked well on this.

Going forward to my recent house move, I primed the existing oil based paintwork in the bedroom using the bin after a rub down aswell.

The bin is really watery and is initially difficult to get the hang of, but work quickly it's not to bad, I found that brushing it on didn't leave any brush marks and personally feel it left a good base for the top coat.

The cover stain however I find is a pain to apply, it's like painting with treacle, however i do find it less messy, and I don't like having to use throw away brushes or brush cleaning spirits.

I'm not a fan of oil based paint.

I'm just a diy'er though so my thoughts should be taken with a pinch of salt