wickes CDT212W.4 drill gearbox schematics needed.

[Gaogier]

Hello

Where can I get the schematics for a Wickes CDT212W.4 drill driver? I just need to see how the gearbox goes back together. A small backstory why will follow, but essentially I have a Wickes drill driver, that I had to take a part, but I have a spring that I can't work out where it goes. Any help would be great.

Items in the gear box, as far as I can tell are back in the correct place, however there is no clicking sound when changing the torque, and I have a regular spring that I don't know where it goes, it is not the big spring that goes outside of the gearbox and inside the torque setting part, nor is it a leaf spring. Why didn't I record where each part went when taking the gearbox apart? I stupidly half dropped the gearbox so the parts fell out.

Backstory
The chuck on the drill basically decided to break on me, to the point that it would not unstick to unscrew it, I spent over a week trying different things to open it, but in the end I said, I will go through the gearbox and use heat if needed and I will use the vice, with leverage. I had a few feet of leverage and the chuck shaft in the vice, I managed to get it off.


Main problem/current setup/bad setup

The shaft of the drill, I have the baring on the screw side for the chuck, goes into the plastic casing, then inside the plastic spacing, there is enough room for a spring and I can just get the second baring and washer pushed down into the case shaft, keeping it in place with a circlip. This is where I then add the gears of which I have a good idea on how they go back now. However the spring is now trapped and there appears to do nothing, especially without the spring there is no movements what's so ever. So, does this mean the spring goes inside with the gears? putting pressure on the system to allow for high and low setting or reverse?

Do you have any experience with a spring inside the gearbox of a drill?

 

[big-all]

you will probably only ever get an exploded diagram iff spares are available
you could try solent powertool spares as they do loads off own brand spares

SOLENT TOOLS - POWER TOOL, GARDEN MACHINERY SPARE PARTS

POWERTOOL AND GARDEN MACHINERY SPARE PARTS . INCLUDING PERFORMANCE POWER ERBAUER PERFORMANCE POWER TITAN QUALCAST WORX SPEAR AND JACKSON JCB NUTOOL PARKSIDE

solenttools.co.uk

 

[Gaogier]

I ended up asking my mum for help, I don't know why I don't more often, she has a lot of experience with all of the DIY/construction sector. Back in the late 90's to mid 00's she over saw about 2/3 of a school being built, and maintained the other 1/3, then maintained the old and new building, and did everything there from decorating, electrical testing, plumbing, fitting and replacing windows, carpentry etc... She saved the school millions due to her doing most of the work, or finding better and cheaper ways to do the work.

Being autistic, and leaving school in 2005, and having surgeries, she left to look after me, and over saw 2 special needs schools merged into one bigger school, where she further educated herself by becoming certified in pool safety including keeping the water safe (ph levels), found a huge safety issue in the pool heating room, but was forced out of the school as they didn't promote her, instead got someone who didn't know what he was doing.

Even though we broke a circlip (not sure if its really needed) we have the drill back together and working in both low and high gear (Gear 1 and 2) although it can be a little tricky getting it to change gear in high torque modes...

However if anyone does have the schematics or know where to find them, it would be greatly appreciated.

 

[big-all]

when you say change gear in high torque mode you do mean the numbered ring rather than change gear under load that will kill the gear box fairly instantly

 

[Gaogier]

So, at the top of the drill when holding it as if you were drilling, you have the switch with 1 and 2 on it, some drills have 3 I believe. This is the part that is a little fiddly. It’s hard to switch it from switch 1 to switch 2 when the torque is in say drill mode but it’s easy to switch in say 1 torque setting the closer to each the harder or easier it is to switch. The only problem I can think of is wear and tear happening faster than planned.

 

[big-all]

sometimes on any drill it can be rotate the chuck a fraction or even pulse the trigger or even back to one and try 2 again without turning any thing
even had choose about 20 revs a min unloaded and you get a gentle click once you used it you will learn its peculiarities