Window door measurement information

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Hi,
I'm about to fit either a window or french window/door into a low height wall.

I have the lintel to damp course measurement, but the floor lever is a bit higher than the damp course, so the window will hang down a bit.

I need to visualise what it will look like before choosing window or door.

Does anyone know how to find the frame measurements on various windows please?
Camerart.
 
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Hi,
No replies?
Here's a drawing, of what I want.
C
 

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    Frame size.png
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The measurement will vary from profile to profile. Best to talk to the company you are buying the window from
 
The measurement will vary from profile to profile. Best to talk to the company you are buying the window from
Hi R,
I'm buying from a wholesaler, who said it was on their computer but not publicised. I try not to outstay my welcome.

As a DIYer I can go to a company who buy from them, and waste their time, but they'll give me the measurements, but I'm trying to find out as much as I can first.

What I'm trying to visualise, is when I see 'say' french windows in a showroom, there is a section below view. Where a window may look better showing the whole frame surround.

In the online brochures I've seen so far I haven't found windows that go down to the floor.
C
 
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Depends on the size you are after , there are usually two types of ' outer frame ' , one approx 57mm , one approx 72mm ( as I said exact size depends on profile.) The thinner is usually used on window frames , the wider door frames. Windows will have maximum sizes they can be made at , again dependant on profile. Floor to ceiling opening windows are unlikely, except tilt and turn, so you could be looking at a door instead and then it will depend what type of threshold you want as there is a wheelchair friendly , low pvc and standard ( vary on profiles ) , and then it depends whether you need a cill. This is why I say you need to discuss it with the people you are buying the window/door from
 
Depends on the size you are after , there are usually two types of ' outer frame ' , one approx 57mm , one approx 72mm ( as I said exact size depends on profile.) The thinner is usually used on window frames , the wider door frames. Windows will have maximum sizes they can be made at , again dependant on profile. Floor to ceiling opening windows are unlikely, except tilt and turn, so you could be looking at a door instead and then it will depend what type of threshold you want as there is a wheelchair friendly , low pvc and standard ( vary on profiles ) , and then it depends whether you need a cill. This is why I say you need to discuss it with the people you are buying the window/door from
Hi R,
Thanks, that's helpful.
Floor to Lintel is 1720mm with 50mm drop to the damp course, as shown. and 1200mm Wide.
I think doors may be a bit too low, so I'll veer towards windows, and probably will look better if they're even framed all round so 1720X1200.
Do you think it should be a single pain, or does two pains sound better? If two frames, perhaps with a small opening window at the top.
C
 
So on that basis, depending on how much ventilation you require ( unless you have PIV , MHEV or airbricks you'll be needing trickle vents too ), personally I'd go full length glass ( which will need to be tougher ed) witha fanlight at the top. The drop of the fanlight could be whatever height isn't in your eyeline, normally they are about 400mm from top of frame. So if window I'd say a 52mm frame all round with a 30mm deep cill at the bottom to allow correct drainage, so bottom would be slightly thicker ( closer to 80mm to visible glass . Also depends on how much frame is hidden by plaster/render , but glass to edge of frame , approx 52mm ( check that width with manufacturer though to get precise width ). Are you bound by any building regs for this window? Guess the lintel was already there and you've removed a window?
 
So on that basis, depending on how much ventilation you require ( unless you have PIV , MHEV or airbricks you'll be needing trickle vents too ), personally I'd go full length glass ( which will need to be tougher ed) witha fanlight at the top. The drop of the fanlight could be whatever height isn't in your eyeline, normally they are about 400mm from top of frame. So if window I'd say a 52mm frame all round with a 30mm deep cill at the bottom to allow correct drainage, so bottom would be slightly thicker ( closer to 80mm to visible glass . Also depends on how much frame is hidden by plaster/render , but glass to edge of frame , approx 52mm ( check that width with manufacturer though to get precise width ). Are you bound by any building regs for this window? Guess the lintel was already there and you've removed a window?
Hi R,
Good stuff!
Regarding building regs, yes, I'm inspected at every important move.
This was a coal shed/outside toilet lean to, and there's a wall plate all along the ull width of it. It is 80x100 and served as the lintel for the toilet door and window. This opening is twice the width, so I added a 10mm 75x100 angle to support it and save the depth of a lintel. This has been accepted :)

I can drop the cill down 30mm so the bottom of the window is floor level, and have drainage.
There a second side window which could have the fanlight, and all windows with trickle vents.

I'll have to think about the frame width, as this is a 9" solid wall and will be 75mm insulated, I suppose the side of the window could be thin, so it looks ok.
It's coming together, thanks.
C
 
You can get a wide outer frame , usually depth of door frame ( so 72mm ish ) , or addons/knockons which will vary in sizes depending on manufacture...ours use 15mm, 25mm and 40mm , and these can be used to make the frame wider so it can be buried in the wall
 

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