Window sealant

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Hi I take it my window should be sealed at the top where the small plastic lip above the window meets the brickwork?I've got a cold internal wall there at high level and damp in that wall.
 

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Hi I take it my window should be sealed at the top where the small plastic lip above the window meets the brickwork?I've got a cold internal wall there at high level and damp in that wall.
Ideally, that window should be fitted further in towards the internal by about 25mm or so.
 
Ideally, that window should be fitted further in towards the internal by about 25mm or so.
Ideally would be but lots of the windows in the estate are the same.they have a gable roof that overhangs more than normal so probably less need.Ill look to fill that gap then see it helps with the wall.I also have bits of pointing missing on that wall internally in loft so will get those filled as well.
 
What sealant would you use and I take it clear would be better as it's going to be really awkward to get to as it's only accessible via the windows, conservatory below, so less visible than white if it's not really neat finish
 
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Is the 'small plastic lip' a failed trim?
Looks very much like it, through our blurryvision anyway. It looks like stretched and ripped clear silicone between it and the brick, definitely a different colour to the pointing.

Probably to cover the ugly undersides of the bricks - the sides have corners, the bottom has a sill.

If it was jutting out beyond the brick then it would be a damp issue by trapping water, and probably also why it's come off.

Replace with something that fits under the face, e.g. quadrant beading, or just use sealant as it's hardly recessed.
 
I could go with an MS polymer such as clear CT1. It will adhere even if the bricks are damp.
 
Just got done better picks has a sealant in there that appears to no longer be adhering and hence gap.Also second pick is from other side of window.Ill probably need to add a line of sealant let it dry and add another to make sure it seals . radiator Ng would be good but it's a really awkward spot to get into as I have no access from below due to conservatory only access via the window. If I do end up going through quadrant beading route how us best to fix this?If adhesive I'd worry that years down the road it'd lose adhesion and if fixings there's very little to fix to and doubt that'd be easy via the window
 

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Got a better picture here it seems that there's failed mortar above the lip between the lip and brickwork, also failed silicone to patch the holes. I tried removing as much of the sealant as possible and also applied a tiny bit of mortar in some places where it's missing but it's incredibly hard to get to.just seems like an odd set up as that rain will run down that face and drip into this spot.Getting beading in there will be tricky and might not stick well I think I'll just have to make do with lots of sealant
 

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It's hard to tell what's what. Is there a lintel there? Hopefully there's a metal lip somewhere between the window and brick.

I'm wondering if the brick was built directly over the original wooden frame, bedded on mortar, then the plastic window replaced it.

If there's no lintel then you've opened a can of worms as it probably needs one. Although in reality they are missing from many houses, usually there's a lintel on the inner wall that actually holds the roof up so it's not as terrible as you might think. We added one where one was missing but we were moving the window upwards to get worktops under it so had another reason to do it.

If there is a lintel then some sort of clean-up followed by sealant sculpting is probably the only way to deal with it to make it look reasonable. Although it's possible you could get a quadrant trim in after some hacking.

Ideally it needs scaffold. Be bloody careful if working out of a window, don't underestimate the risk of getting too absorbed in what you're doing and stretching just a little more. I'd buy a proper safety harness attached to something very solid if doing this.
 

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