windows

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Howdy, got the time, got the equipment and I think I've got the skill, but what I havn't got are plans to make windows. I made a couple several years ago which are still serviceable but a little out of proportion. Have tried everywhere including the internet but all I seem to get are page after page of companies trying to flog the units. Can anybody point me in the right direction?
 
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Howdy, got the time, got the equipment and I think I've got the skill, but what I havn't got are plans to make windows.
But are you aware that unless your FENSA (or similar) registered & can self certify, replacement windows/doors has been notifyable work for some years. You will need to notify your LABC & they will want to inspect both your windows & their installation to ensure they comply with current Building Regs. (fee involved). If you can’t produce the necessary compliance documentation, you could have problems selling in the future.

But there are a couple of Forum members who believe in & make wood windows so they will probably advise. ;)
 
Thanks Richard, might have known the red tape brigade would be on the case. What I can say is that like thousands of other practical people, I take pride in my work and will endevour to do the windows in the correct manner. I guess the rules and regs are set to keep an army of b.crats employed and earn a crafty fee as well. Pity that common sense doesn't enter into the equation. Oops, sorry about the rant, just had dealings with the planning office (Department of Frustrating and Illogical Objections).
 
Why do you need plans?

Buy the frame sections and just mortice and tenon the joints.

You will also need a large flat work top, and gear to assemble and set the frames/casements square
 
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Hi woody, sorry for the confusion, what I meant was I need to know the optimum sections of timber to use for the sides, tops, mullions, transoms etc., in order to keep the correct proportions.
 
Cornwall! building regs! your having a laugh! just go ahead and do it like the rest of us! :)
 
Looks like somebody else is having fun in this neck of the woods. Can't believe the hassle trying to get planning perm for a simple extension. Obviously I didn't appreciate the "world heritage" status and all the rest of the bull that goes with it. Wonder if those cowboys used to trade as Norfolk and Good? Anyway, what about my windows
 
the standard sections i have seen in timber yards do not have wide or deep enough rebates for sealed units. i use a rebate of 17mm x 46mm to accomodate 24 to 29mm thick units. (4mm allowed for glazing tape each side). i use 60mm deep sections for sashes and 79mm for frames. all generally 60mm wide, although more can be necessary.

you will want to think about the types of locks (cockspur handles or espag) and hinges (butt or friction). these will also affect the section widths as espag locks and friction hinges require clearances.
 
forgot to say, 17mm allows for 12mm to cover spacer bar on edge of sealed unit (check with supplier of units) and 5mm minimum ventilation gap all round.
drained and ventilated dry glazing is desirable and will give your sealed units and wood the best chance of a decent lifespan.
 
Out of interest and I have no idea if Ranger's is interested but how do you get approval on home-made windows?
 

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