Wire exiting wall into kitchen cabinet.

[Ant1]

I need to get my electrics prepared before a new kitchen is being installed.

Regarding the integrated appliances, I was going to get some sockets installed on the wall just behind the oven and dishwasher. However I read it is more convenient to install the sockets inside one of the adjacent cabinets as it would be easier to change the socket fuse if needed. Also the sockets on the wall my prevent the cabinet to be flush with the wall; to be honest I am unsure as the kitchen units have not yet been purchased.

Would you agree it is more convenient to install sockets in kitchen cabinets rather than on the walls?

If yes, what the regulation says about a electric wire exiting a wall (to be directed into a kitchen cabinet)? I assume it should be in a kind of conduit.

Thanks!

 

[winston1]

I have my sockets behind the appliances and don't have problems pushing the units back. Best if you can see the units first so you can decide where the best place for the sockets is. Don't worry about having to pull the units out to change a fuse. Fuse blowing is extremely rare and if it happens it is due to a fault and the units will have to come out anyway to find the fault. In an adjacent cupboard is OK, in practice on the wall behind the cupboard so you will have to cut a hole in the back of the cupboard. You will also need a hole in the side of the cupboard big enough for the appliance plug to pass through.

 

[Ant1]

Thanks winston, I am pretty sure to get a METOD Ikea kitchen, the instruction manual for the over unit does not give specific dimension (available from https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/assembly...uilt-in-oven-sink-white__AA-2235736-3_pub.pdf) and it looks like the cabinet will be near flush with the wall. Anyone can comment on such kitchen?

 

[sparkwright]

I have found most integrated appliances will not push back enough if a flush socket and 13 amp plug are sticking out of the wall.

One can fit a flex outlet plate instead (fused or non-fused, depending on how isolator switches above have been connected) and wire the appliance flex directly to this. This often allows only just enough space for the appliance.

I now prefer to fit a 13 amp plug socket in a nearby cupboard, as Winston has described.

One should always make sure an appliance can be disconnected without having to drag the appliance out, if only for convenience.

 

[Ant1]

Thanks sparkwright, I think the answer to the next question is No but would like to check; is this allowed for an electrical cable to exit a wall without using a flex outlet place, and to go straight into the cabinet unit where a socket would be attached to that cable?

 

[SUNRAY]

I have my sockets behind the appliances and don't have problems pushing the units back. Best if you can see the units first so you can decide where the best place for the sockets is. Don't worry about having to pull the units out to change a fuse. Fuse blowing is extremely rare and if it happens it is due to a fault and the units will have to come out anyway to find the fault. In an adjacent cupboard is OK, in practice on the wall behind the cupboard so you will have to cut a hole in the back of the cupboard. You will also need a hole in the side of the cupboard big enough for the appliance plug to pass through.

My only comment different to this is I like to be able to easily isolate when cleaning etc. Otherwise good advice. I've never experienced any significant problem creating the space for a socket in, or on the wall behind, an adjacent cupboard or getting the plug through.

 

[Sureitsoff?]

i dont think the ikea units have a service void at the back so they need a clear flat wall to sit correctly

 

[DetlefSchmitz]

i dont think the ikea units have a service void at the back so they need a clear flat wall to sit correctly

I believe this to be the case. Tricky if you need to run water pipes, at least compared to other makes.

 

[Taylortwocities]

I have my sockets behind the appliances and don't have problems pushing the units back.

Don't worry about having to pull the units out to change a fuse.

The above written by someone who obviously has never needed to carry out a PAT test on appliances in a rented property.
To carry out the PAT test, you need to be able to access the plug to carry out the required tests and to determine the fuse value. This isn’t practical when the appliance (as it always is) full of wet clothes.
Access is not just needed to change the fuse!

 

[sparkwright]

Not to mention the fun and games of loose lino getting torn up as you try to pull the appliance out.

 

[JohnD]

Not to mention the fun and games of loose lino getting torn up as you try to pull the appliance out.

Spraying the vinyl flooring with WD40 or furniture polish is a great aid to sliding appliances in and out.

 

[winston1]

The above written by someone who obviously has never needed to carry out a PAT test on appliances in a rented property.

This is true. Even worse if the appliance is hard wired in.
Are PA (t)ests required on appliances in rented property? If I rented a property and someone wanted to put one of those machines on all my delicate electronic appliances (that includes modern washing machines) I would show him the door.

 

[RF Lighting]

This is true. Even worse if the appliance is hard wired in.
Are PA (t)ests required on appliances in rented property? If I rented a property and someone wanted to put one of those machines on all my delicate electronic appliances (that includes modern washing machines) I would show him the door.

What exactly do you think an appliance test is going to do to your “delicate electronic appliances”?

Try to answer without lying.

 

[SUNRAY]

This is true. Even worse if the appliance is hard wired in.
Are PA (t)ests required on appliances in rented property? If I rented a property and someone wanted to put one of those machines on all my delicate electronic appliances (that includes modern washing machines) I would show him the door.

In which case you would be earning money contrary to law.

In fact there is a TV series all about the sort of landlord you would be.

Personally I prefer to be a good landlord, and because of it my agents try to find me good tenants.

 

[bernardgreen]

Would you agree it is more convenient to install sockets in kitchen cabinets rather than on the walls?

I would strongly disagree,

First problem would be having to have an electrician on site while the kitchen is being installed. Do not trust kitchen installers with the installation of cables and connecting up to sockets. Many are not qualified to install electrical systems and if they are qualified many are paid a fixed amount per kitchen install. There is no incentive to spend time and do the electrical work properly.

I would agree with double pole switches above the work surface together with either a plug and socket or flex output plate behind the appliance.

Reason for accessible double pole switching ? An appliance that goes faulty and trips an RCD or MCB will need to be fully isolated to allow the RCD or MCB to be reset to restore power to the kitchen sockets. A heavy appliance ( washing machine full of water ) may require two people to move it. Without accessible isolation the circuits protected by the RCD cannot be re-energised and that could include lighting circuits.