Wireless thermostat on Glowworm Ultimate 80FF?

[rjm2k]

Just wondering if it's possible to retrofit a wirless thermostat to one of these boilers?

Our setup doesn't heat the towel radiators when only the HW is on so I'm wondering if the best way to sort that is to have the heating on but only in the bathrooms, however the thermostat is currently in the dining room which we obviously don't want to heat in summer. A wireless thermostat would allow us to place it in a bathroom during summer and elsewhere during winter.

Is this possible? If so, any idea which wireless thermostat?

I've yet to investigate whether it's by fault or design that the towel rads aren't on when water only is on but there are 3 of them so altering pipework is probably a no no.

Thanks

 

[stem]

If you have an existing wired thermostat, you can have a wireless one. However the wiring depends upon the type of thermostat you have and the existing electrical installation as much as the boiler. For example, some thermostats have a neutral connection & some don't. So if you could tell us what type of thermostat you have now, and the details of the wiring connections inside it, someone will be able to confirm.

The choice of thermostat is up to you. They vary in price, the functions they offer, simplicity of use and aesthetics, which are personal to you. Go for a well known quality manufacturer such as Honeywell, Danfoss or Drayton.

It would be unusual these days to have the towel rads connected to the hot water circuit. This is because hot water cylinders are now fitted with thermostats and only take minutes to heat up on a pumped system. Then, they can be off for hours, depending how much hot water is used, so the towel rails would hardly ever be on.

For this reason, many towel radiators now have the facility to have an electric element installed, so that they can be used when the central heating is off.

It was a different matter in the old days, before thermostats and with gravity circulation for the hot water system.

 

[rjm2k]

Thanks, I'll have a look tonight.

Do you think the better option is to add electrics to existing rads (they are probably quite old so may not have the option and may need replacing) or add the wireless theromstat in a bathroom or downstairs loo and run the heating with all rooms we don't want heated turned down?

 

[stem]

Probably the second option. Even if the rads do have the facilty to be fitted with elements, they will have to be wired up which can be expensive, even if you go the DIY route because DIY wiring in bathrooms requires notification of your Local Authority Building Control and payment of their fee.

 

[rjm2k]

Ok, here is the thermostat, looks like it's got Neutral in there...

View media item 49795View media item 49796View media item 49797
Any recommendations for a wireless replacement? I see there is a DT92E for around £70 is this suitable or are there better value?

Does the relay box simply wire in where the current stat is or is it better to trace the wiring back to the boiler/controller and install the relay there?

I'm wondering if it's worthwhile replaceing the controller too and using a combined stat/controller? Something like the cmt921a1042 isn't that much more expensive but is it a much bigger job to replace both?


Thanks

 

[rjm2k]

hmm the DT92E seems quite old, any idea what the new version is, there's so many different models on the website!

 

[rjm2k]

Honeywell are sending me some info on the CM927 and DT92E but also a new product which would allow me to create zones for the bathroom radiators without altering the pipework (I think they are replacement wireless TRVs). Any feedback on that idea?

Thanks

 

[stem]

If the wiring follows the usual format, then:

Red = Live from programmer / timeswitch
Yellow = Switched live to turn the central heating on
Blue = Neutral

This looks right, because the accelerator heater (small resister) is wired across the blue & yellow so that it is only energised when the thermostat is calling for heat.

Does the relay box simply wire in where the current stat is or is it better to trace the wiring back to the boiler/controller and install the relay there?

The easiest way would be to put the receiver where the existing stat is, but there's nothing wrong with moving it. If you have motorised valves, the three core cable from the thermostat normally goes back to the wiring centre, possibly located in the airing cupboard. Most wireless units also specify a maximum distance between transmitter and receiver, which can vary depending upon the characteristics of the property, metal objects, walls etc., so that may effect where you position it.

I'm wondering if it's worthwhile replacing the controller too and using a combined stat/controller? Something like the cmt921a1042 isn't that much more expensive but is it a much bigger job to replace both?

It depends. You could always leave the existing programmer in situ with the central heating set to permanently 'on' and install a wireless programmable thermostat as above. If you have timed hot water, you will still need some type of timeswitch for that, so personally I think it's easier to set the hot water and central heating times at the same unit.

As for recommendations, sorry I can't help you there. I've installed half a dozen or so, but never used one myself.

 

[rjm2k]

Ok thanks, the Zone stuff they sent looks like mega money so will probably go for the CM927 or DT92E with relay either in current position or I think I remember looking behind a blanking plate under the boiler which I suspect is where the stat goes at the moment.

 

[stem]

If your system has a motorised valve (or valves) the thermostat will be wired to operate a motorised valve not the boiler. The motorised valve then in turn controls the boiler.

If you don't have a motorised valve and have pumped central heating with gravity hot water, then the thermostat is normally wired across the programmer and the central heating pump.

In either case it is unlikely that the thermostat is wired to the boiler. (unless it's a combi, and I don't think a Glowworm Ultimate 80FF is)

 

[rjm2k]

Thanks, it does have a motorised valve

 

[gas_man_gaz]

bg will fit ya wireless controls what ya can use with a app on ya phone for around £200

 

[rjm2k]

Thanks, I might look into that option

 

[gas_man_gaz]

the wireless stats they use are similar to these

http://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-d...rpmJh0RnPhKGyQXlvRBLGV4LxJGyClTMc!-1047906746