Wiring from DY-107 to Heatmiser NeoStat-e V2, only 3 wires? Is L1 = LOAD?

[stevem987]

Hi, my old thermostat/controller (DY-107) only has 3 wires as per the image (which is the lower left in the diagram), Live, Neutral and L1 (black) and is for electric underfloor heating.

The new replacement is a Heatmiser neostat-e v2 and i'm assuming it should take those 3 wires as L (Live) [far right], N (Neutral) [3rd from right] and the black from the old one (L1) going to the LOAD (2nd from right) on the neostat

Is this correct? (L1 = LOAD)??

The individual rooms have heatmiser DS1-L V2's with sensors in them for room stat temperature controls.

The neostat-e v2 will connect wirelessly to a neohub for controlling

 

[ericmark]

Old thermostat is for water or chemical type electric UFH and new thermostat is for electric resistive UFH where you need a sensor in the floor to stop floor getting too hot.

What type of UFH do you have?

 

[stevem987]

Hi Eric,

the old thermostat/programmer allowed for setting up the heating timings but is awkward to use hence changing to the Heatmiser system which matches the other room stats (NeoStat-e V2 with NeoHub)

It's all electric underfloor heating with a Nibe F205P electric boiler

 

[ericmark]

I have looked at boiler info it does not say how much power goes through the thermostat, it could work a relay so less than 3 amp, or be direct so needs to handle around 13 amp so rated at 16 amp.

There are multi versions of the neostat, and I simply don't know which you can use, easy for me, I would simply measure, with one of these and find out, but without knowing the load through the thermostat I would not want to recommend what to use. You I assume can set water temp in the boiler, so don't need sensor, but can't say what will work with that boiler.

 

[stevem987]

I did check with Heatmiser first and they recommended replacing the DY-107 with this 16 amp Neostat-e V2 for UFH, and the rooms are controlled with their independant stats.
Also the old DY-107 which is only 6 months old, has only been wired in with the 3 wires

Would the L1 on the old equate to LOAD (for the new one)?
Thanks