Wiring of electric roof window

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As part of an extension we have converted a flat roof into pitched roof and installed an electric roof light with remote control.

The wiring instructions are almost written for a child - very easy to follow. There are 2 wires to connect to the mains.

Are there any regulations to say I have to have an electrician to connect this or can I do it myself?
The builder has fitted the window and the flashing which is a sound job.
 
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There are no regulations or any legal requirement for you to employ an electrician to install the electrical part.

What you must do is comply to certain requirements!
Is there a circuit and a power point available?
Did the extension and work within it, require building control notification?
 
There are both wires for the lighting circuit and the sockets close by in the ceiling.
I would tap into the socket circuit via a junction box.

The roof conversion is subject to building insp. approval.
 
I would tap into the socket circuit via a junction box.

Not like that, you don't!

The "tap" must go to a fused connection unit (FCU), with a fuse as receommended by the window manufacturer. You connect the wire from the window into the FCU.
 
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The manufacturer - Fakro - is neither requiring a fuse nor an FCU.
 
Did the person who installed the roof light pay full attention to the safety of a remotely controlled electric window before opting for remote control ?

The risks of the window being closed when someone else has a head or arm out of the window has to be considered.

Also you may need to consider a fall back means of closing if the remote cannot be found or fails to work when it starts to rain.
 
Ok I will add a fused spur into the wiring. Does not make much sense to me if it is on a modern fuse - mcb or something like it - in the fusebox though.

The window is about 3.3 m above floor level in the ground floor ceiling. No chance of many people having an arm through.

We have a rain sensor installed. The window does not open wide enough electrically that wind could be a problem.
If the electrics brake or the remote is misplaced I will have to get the ladder out as a fall back....
 
Ok I will add a fused spur into the wiring. Does not make much sense to me if it is on a modern fuse - mcb or something like it - in the fusebox though.

You are missing a big but.

The fuse etc in the consumer unit will be rated for teh size of wiring in the ring final circuit. Usually this will be 32amps.

The wiring and connecting cable in the window electrics will be small weedy cable probably maximum 5 amps. So, you get a fault in the window's electrics. Its a short circuit. That 32amp fuse will keep on delivering 230v at 32 amps until either the connecting cable, or the electronics fries itself, with accompanying flames etc.

That's when you'll be wanting to remember which is the escape window.

A 5 amp fuse in the FCU (or whatever the maker specifies) will protect the window itself. Everything else you connect to the ring circuit has a fuse. Can you now understand why that might be?
 
Ok I will add a fused spur into the wiring. Does not make much sense to me if it is on a modern fuse - mcb or something like it - in the fusebox though.
But this is a socket circuit, isn't it.

I would tap into the socket circuit via a junction box.

So what's the rating of that MCB? And what's the current carrying capacity of the wiring to the window motor?

Also, if that socket circuit is a ring final, what do the Wiring Regulations say about what may be connected to it?

You must use an FCU.
 

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