Hi Guys- I have a Vokera compact HE which is currently controlled by an old Sopac mechanical room stat. I have bought an Eco ET4 rf stat that I wish to connect instead. This has four connections- two for the 230v feed I need to get to it, and two others, unhelpfully (to me) marked 1 and 2. Looking at the wiring in the boiler, the six way connector block has power feeds from a 2amp mains block to the inbuilt timer and the board. Returning? from these (timer and board) are two black wires apiece. The two black wires from the timer are joined together in block two. The two black wires from the board go to blocks 1 and 3. Then connected to these are the wires that go on to my existing stat. My problem is- in the instruction manual wiring for an external rf stat, the black wires from the timer are not wired together in block 2, (which is shown not used)- one is shown going to the external stat and the other to the timer and then on to the stat. I`m confused. Any help greatly appreciated.
wiring rf stat to Vokera HE29
- Thread starter gaz01132
- Start date
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The connections on the inbuilt clock are marked are marked 2, 4 and 1.
To make things easy, lets call the six connectors on the main block - 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 - from left to right.
1) Connect a wire from main block connection 1 to connecter 1 on the new stat.
2) Connect a wire from connector 4 on the inbuilt clock to connector 2 on the new stat.
3) The black wire from main block 3 to inbuilt clock 1 needs to stay in place.
4) Take the L and N power connections for the new stat from L and N on the small mains power block.
Bob's your auntie's live in lover.
To make things easy, lets call the six connectors on the main block - 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 - from left to right.
1) Connect a wire from main block connection 1 to connecter 1 on the new stat.
2) Connect a wire from connector 4 on the inbuilt clock to connector 2 on the new stat.
3) The black wire from main block 3 to inbuilt clock 1 needs to stay in place.
4) Take the L and N power connections for the new stat from L and N on the small mains power block.
Bob's your auntie's live in lover.
Man this plumbing forum is busy- could`nt find my post as it was on page two in just two days! Anyhow, many thanks to WS66 for your idiots guide- I wired it up no probs- after I`d realised the built in timer has to be switched to the on position Problem now is it works in so much as the remote stat measures room temp( albeit about 3 degrees higher than actual IMO ), and detects when to ignite burner, and burner symbol comes on screen, but boiler just does not fire most of the time, even when remote in same room. Would it be worth changing the jumpers to give it a different frequency before I send it back as unfit for purpose?
Problem now is it works in so much as the remote stat measures room temp( albeit about 3 degrees higher than actual IMO ), and detects when to ignite burner, and burner symbol comes on screen, but boiler just does not fire most of the time, even when remote in same room. Would it be worth changing the jumpers to give it a different frequency before I send it back as unfit for purpose?Sponsored Links
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