Wiring single channel Hive

[44magnum]

Bit of help needed please peeps!
My mate and I successfully installed a two channel Hive for hot water and heating but he's gone off on hols! Now I need to install the upstairs single channel Hive for controlling just the heating but I'm a little confused on the wiring. I'm replacing a Danfoss TPone-B with the new single channel Hive but cannot for the life of me work out the wiring. I've only got three wires connected to the Danfoss, blue, brown (live) and earth. I've attached a photo of the Danfoss so could someone help with the wiring for the Hive?

Much appreciated.

 

[EFLImpudence]

You do not put it upstairs in place of the thermostat.

You fit it near the boiler or wiring centre and do away with the thermostat and its cable

 

[44magnum]

You do not put it upstairs in place of the thermostat.

You fit it near the boiler or wiring centre and do away with the thermostat and its cable

You've lost me. This Hive single channel receiver and separate thermostat is replacing the Danfoss which currently controls Zone 2 of our heating, i.e upstairs.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Because it’s zoned, the receiver for the thermostat connects to the zone valve via the wiring center, the existing Danfoss wiring will be connected to the wiring center too, which will be easier for decommissioning.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Yes, but the Danfoss is just the thermostat part, which, for the Hive, is remote.

You must have the control mechanism and wiring for the zone valve somewhere else.

 

[44magnum]

OK I think I understand now.

Back to the drawing board!

Cheers

 

[Deleted member 267285]

You do know you can still fit the Hive?

 

[44magnum]

You do know you can still fit the Hive?

I'd love to know how!

 

[Deleted member 267285]

I'd love to know how!

Because it’s zoned, the receiver for the thermostat connects to the zone valve via the wiring center, the existing Danfoss wiring will be connected to the wiring center too, which will be easier for decommissioning.

You just need to find wiring center and fit the receiver there.

 

[44magnum]

You just need to find wiring center and fit the receiver there.

No problem locating the wiring centre, but the innards look like spaghetti junction. I wouldn't know where to start. Time to call in the experts methinks.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Time to call in the experts methinks.

Not a bad move, but if you posted a photo of inside wiring center, someone (or me - my wiring knowledge isn’t the best) could help you.

 

[44magnum]

Not a bad move, but if you posted a photo of inside wiring center, someone (or me - my wiring knowledge isn’t the best) could help you.

That's very kind of you, I'll upload some photos first thing tomorrow morning Thanks

 

[ericmark]

There are two methods to split the home into zones, one is with a zone valve

and the other is with a TRV

they both do the same thing, but the way it is controlled is different. There are two ways for a wall thermostat to control a boiler, one is on/off, the other is up/down, some boilers will allow up/down control, others don't, so Hive was designed to work cheaply and simply with most boilers by simply turning the boiler on/off electrically and up/down using return water temperature.

If you turn a oil or old gas boiler on/off it works fine, but new gas boilers are designed to modulate, that means turn down output, so there are less losses. Every time the boiler turns off any heat in the boiler is lost out of the flue, it will still work, but not in an efficient way, so we want the boiler to turn up/down rather than on/off.

There are thermostats like EPH which can work a zone valve and turn boiler up/down set as master and slave, but in the main we simply don't use zone valves but use TRV control instead. Bit of a compromise, as the TRV shown is expensive, so we select key rooms for the linked TRV head, and use not linked in other rooms to keep the price down. The linked head with Hive sends a "demand of heat" to wall thermostat to keep the boiler running, so with a couple of linked TRV heads the boiler will run when required, and the cheaper terrier i30 or eQ-3 (shown) heads work the rest of the radiators.

So there is only one wall thermostat, other makes have different ideas, but as far as I am aware there is no way to link a second wall sensor to the main thermostat. Nest in USA do remote temperature sensors, although not released as yet it seems in the UK, and EPH as said do a master/slave set up, but these do not have linked TRV heads.

Yes it can be made to work, Hive SLT5 it seems is battery powered and may work, but on the Hive web site it does not give instructions it just directs you to use an authorised installer.

 

[44magnum]

Not a bad move, but if you posted a photo of inside wiring center, someone (or me - my wiring knowledge isn’t the best) could help you.

I've attached a photo of the zone valve (upstairs one is yellow coded) and it's route into the wiring centre. I've also attached a close up of a cable with brown/blue wires entering the centre, might this be the same cable that's connected to the Danfoss stat in the bedroom?

Over to you chaps, any assistance you can provide to enable me to connect the new Hive receiver would be appreciated, but I fully accept this may need the professionals in

Thanks

 

[winston1]

Every time the boiler turns off any heat in the boiler is lost out of the flue, it will still work, but not in an efficient way, so we want the boiler to turn up/down rather than on/off.

You've said that before and I disagree that is always the case. Often the pump is wired to over run so that any heat in the boiler is still pumped to the radiators or hot water cylinder.