Wooden window handle positioning (with photos)

[tgsock]

Hello

I have timber framed windows that i am updating the handles and locks on. The short handle are no problem, but i am being made to feel a little dim by the longer handle. Unfortunately the eBay supplier provided no instructions and is ignoring my emails.

I'm just having a little difficulty deciding how i all should be positioned. I assume all parts supplied are needed, Looking at the bottom of the handle the circular peg could go in 3 places. i have played around with he locking mechanism and i cannot see how the locking mechanism is supposed to work, turning the key does nothing to latch onto he circular peg and i can seem to fit the flat plate into the equation.

Feel free to advise and i will post an image of suggested layouts.

Note, I cant copy the existing set up as i differs in he way that i has 2 holes in he handle and had 2 pegs)

IMAGES:

Above: The set

Above: Handle reverse

Above: Lock position 1

Above: Lock position 2

Above: Layout 1

Above: Layout 2

Above: Layout 3

Above: Layout 4

Above: Layout 5

Above: Layout 6

 

[cmother1]

Hmmm.... unless there's a notch on the round peg on this bit -

Untitled

• cmother1
• 10 Sep 2009
• 1

I can't see how it can be part of the locking mechanism. Must be the peg you use to prop the window open. Which leaves the plate with the "T" piece. Is there any way you can induce the locking mechanism to catch on this. Can't see it from the photos.

Anyone else seen this model? It's not like the Screwfix units...

 

[tgsock]

Hello, Thanks for replying.

The peg you have circled is without a notch and i can't see how it can be gripped in the mechanism when the key is turned? In fact none of the fittings slot in to the lock mechanism in any coherent way only the round peg will fit in he circular indentations in the base of the handles.

The L shaped flatter piece could either be positioned so that the bar can rest on top of i as a ledge (is his normal?) or rotated 90degrees screwed down and angling the face upwards to use as pivot for securing the handle in the round peg further up the handle maybe?

I wish i had bought from a supportive company instead of an eBay trader, never know what sort of mish-mash you may get. Price was good, support wasn't.

If my descriptions or photos are not very clear please let me know. I will be posting some new pictures with layout suggestions. I just dont really know what is the norm.

 

[tgsock]

Here is a link to a similar eBay trader selling these, i have already emailed to ask for instructions, but no reply yet. Check the q&a he seems to explain the fitting but i dont understand the answer.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/74-CHROME-10-...334ebae914&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14#ht_2204wt_757

Edit:

And here too in brass:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....12&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:GB:1123#ht_500wt_946

 

[cmother1]

Hi again. If you look at the window stays on Screwfix the all have a third bracket that fixes to the 'deck' and looks as if it's the bit the lock engages. I suspect you might have a piece missing.

 

[tgsock]

I think I see the part you mean. I have none of those, many sets are still for sale on eBay without this part even now. Seems very unusual. Its helpful to know i'm not going completely mad trying to make the parts i have work.

Would you be able to suggest a layout from the existing parts for holding the window closed just using tension from locking the handle into the positioned rests. I don't really want to bodge it up by positioning them back to front all over my house Thanks for your help again, I appreciate it.

 

[cmother1]

Something like this set-up would allow you to close the window securely, but the lock would be cosmetic:

Untitled

• cmother1
• 11 Sep 2009
• 1

If the peg holds the stay up too high for it to fit behind the T piece, move the peg plate to the casement side of the stay.

Depending on dimensions the T piece might go better to the right of the lock.

(Hey - maybe the lock is cosmetic - like those fake burglar alarm boxes...)