Wooden Worktop Sink etc...

[ILikeDIYS]

Hi, I did wooden worktops in my kitchen and am using them without them being secured just yet.

Just to make sure I don't miss any needed adjustments before securing:

1. Do I need expansion gaps? I scribed them to the walls and really don't wanna be cutting expansion gaps.

2. With the worktop around the sink... do I need to add any type of damp proofing in the sink cutout like you do with laminate worktops?

2.1. Do I need to add any damp/heat proofing on the underside of the sink worktop which will also go above a washing machine?

2.2. Because the sink is granite I need to silicon it - should I oil the worktop first then silicon the sink when the oil is dry or silicon first and oil around the sink after?

2.3. Is Danish oil alone fine or do I need something on top for added protection too?

Thanks.

 

[foxhole]

Danish oil has a short life compared with osmo top oil. You need to oil all of the top , underneath and cut outs.
Silicon will stick to it once dry.
Over heat/steam source I use foil insulation tape on the underside.
You need a tiny expansion gap were tops meet.

 

[ILikeDIYS]

Ah alright. So is this the ideal osmo oil:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/osmo-polyx-hardwax-oil-clear-satin-matt-750ml/1099p

Colour is clear satin-matt? Is this the one to buy? I ask because on another site they have satin and matt as separate. I like the effect of the Danish oil and don't want to change too much.

Also does the underside have to be osmo'd as well or is 3 coats of Danish fine? Keeping in mind the underside won't be re-oiled in the future as it's hard to get to.

There are no tops meeting each other, just butted up against plastered walls.

Cheers.

 

[foxhole]

Danish should be ok underneath.This is the stuff, think they recommend 5 coats.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/2632...3D710-134428-41853-0%26rvr_id%3D1320810653341

The top would be shy of wall a coupe of mm and clear silicon to seal edge.

 

[ILikeDIYS]

Ah will see if I can find it in a local store.

When you say clear silicon around the edge do you mean a bead to cover the gap or it spread across the whole edge with a credit card type tool?

Does silicon need to be on the sink cutout edges as well?

Cheers.

 

[ILikeDIYS]

Argh...

Silicon won't stick.

Used general purpose silicone. Then used low modulus neutral cure which stuck better but still not good enough.

Now spread gorilla wood glue on edges and will stick HVAC foil to it where it touches the walls.

As for silicon around the sink not sure what to do to create a good seal? Thinking of sanding back a bit, white spirit, then neutral cure. Still worried it might allow water through though.

 

[foxhole]

Alcohol wipes before silicon ensure spotless surface.

 

[Doggit]

It's normally recommended to leave a 5mm gap around the worktops, as the expand along their grain more so than across it. As foxhole suggest, every surface of the wood needs to be sealed, or the moisture and humidity in the kitchen will cause expansion. Having used the osmo oil, set the sink in place, lift it slightly, and run a pencil mark around it, a mill or two inside the sink under the lip, then sand this section back to allow the silicone to stick - it will do the job properly. Danish or Teak oil needs redoing every 3 to 6 months, and can give a much deeper colour to the worktop, but if you ever need to sand down the top and reoil it, then it takes a lot longer to get the colour to match back in. Osmo top oil only needs redoing every year or so, and only needs 2 coats to seal it, whereas Teak oil needs about 5 coats, so takes a lot longer; and by the time you've done 5 coats of Teak oil, and then done it every 3 months, the Osmo oil works out much cheaper.

 

[ILikeDIYS]

Yeah I'm definitely going to Osmo it since I already had some discoloration with the Danish oil alone on the other worktop. I just gotta find somewhere that stocks it.

I sealed the edges with Danish oil + external wood glue and also stuck HVAC foil tape to the edges touching the wall.

Also stuck HVAC tape above where the washing machine is going.

Internal sink cutout was sealed with 3 coats Danish + external wood glue.

Sink siliconed and all clamped down now.

It's normally recommended to leave a 5mm gap around the worktops, as the expand along their grain more so than across it.

I read that they expand across the grain?

The wide slots (L brackets) should be positioned perpendicular to the grain to allow the worktop to move with changes in environmental temperature.

So with a worktop pushed up against a wall it is going to expand away from the wall?

 

[Doggit]

Hah, you're right, sorry about that; I shall go and hang my head in shame.

 

[liamruairi]

I wouldn't put danish oil on it. I've done loads of kitchen worktops. Osmo wood protector is brilliant, slap this on first; then let dry. It's food grade safe as well. Then add 2 coats of osmo top oil; not polyx. It's very similar stuff but polyx isn't food grade safe whereas top oil is. Wood finishes direct do it as well as many other places. Clear topoil, job done.