I have recently got my boiler working again after resolving pressure problems caused by a slow leak (PRV I think) and a flat expansion vessel. It has worked fine for a few days (although the boiler pressure rises from 1.5 bar cold to just under 2.5 bar when hot which I think might be too much, and a tap has to be fully opened before I can get DHW which I guess is a faulty diverter valve diaphragm), but suddenly I now have a burner lockout problem.
When the CH is switched on the pump and fan run, the ignition electrodes spark and there are clicking noises from the gas valve but the burner will not light and the CH light starts flashing slowly indicating a burner lockout. At first I suspected the control board, so I removed it and there is some evidence of overheating around a couple of resistors. So I went out and bought a multimeter to test the resistance across pins 7 & 8 and 9 & 10 as instructed in the manual. If both are reading below 100 ohms then the manual says to replace the control board, but I got about 735 ohms from each set of pins and therefore in theory it's the gas valve that's faulty and not the board.
Is it more likely to be the gas valve or could the control board still be faulty even though the resistance test seems OK? I am happy to replace the control board, but don't want to touch the gas valve and only want to call an engineer as a last resort.
Any advice gratefully received.
When the CH is switched on the pump and fan run, the ignition electrodes spark and there are clicking noises from the gas valve but the burner will not light and the CH light starts flashing slowly indicating a burner lockout. At first I suspected the control board, so I removed it and there is some evidence of overheating around a couple of resistors. So I went out and bought a multimeter to test the resistance across pins 7 & 8 and 9 & 10 as instructed in the manual. If both are reading below 100 ohms then the manual says to replace the control board, but I got about 735 ohms from each set of pins and therefore in theory it's the gas valve that's faulty and not the board.
Is it more likely to be the gas valve or could the control board still be faulty even though the resistance test seems OK? I am happy to replace the control board, but don't want to touch the gas valve and only want to call an engineer as a last resort.
Any advice gratefully received.