Worcester bosch 24cdi not igniting

[tom955i]

Hi, I've got a Worcester Bosch 24 CDi RSF that will not light. It sparks, a very small flame appears but doesn't light fully then after about 5 seconds goes out and goes into boiler lockout mode indicated by a slow flashing CH red light. Both the PCB and gas valve have been replaced and I'm getting correct voltages to the valve solenoids and regulator and continuity on all three.

Any help would be gratefully appreciated.

Cheers, tom.

 

[clf-gas]

Gas supply pressure is.

 

[tom955i]

Gas supply pressure is.

Thanks for the swift reply clf-gas.

Gas supply pressure is suspect? Had thought about that except that the boiler had been working fine until it stopped and after fitting new gas valve it has fired into life a couple of times via HW demand but as soon as demand is stopped and restarted it will not relight.

After replacing the valve I checked for leaks at the unions and there were some which suggests gas is getting to the valve but I'm not sure about getting through it. Without the proper pressure gauges i'm a bit stuck for testing.

Could it possibly be the flame censor is faulty and not allowing the burner to fully light.

Once again thanks for any info.

tom.

 

[clf-gas]

Oh Dear, Oh Dear!!!!!!!!!!!


BOOM

 

[tom955i]

Oh Dear, Oh Dear!!!!!!!!!!!


BOOM

Yeah, don't take the **** mate. arsehole

 

[Andygasman2010]

It doesn't really sound a good idea to be messing around with the gas side of things, you say you had leaks after you fitted it?? That's kinda worrying....! It's only two nuts with washers, i've NEVER had one leak after fitting it. The boiler might not even have the right gas pressure coming into it. You'll need an RGI with suitable test equipment to check that, it's may be the gas meter govorner. If it is i'm affraid the gas valve may have been a waste of money, nat grid will sort that for free.

I don't want to sound patronising but you really need to know what you're doing when it comes to gas, the dangers are obvious.

 

[tom955i]

Hi Andygasman, thanks for the reply.
You may be right in saying gas valve may have been a waste of money considering I'm no better of after fitting it.
Did soapy water test on the top and bottom unions immediately after opening the boiler gas supply valve and before switching power back on and reseated sealing washers when leak found.

Just spoke to a friend of a friend who has suggesetd if the boiler's sparking, the last sequential step before it ignites, then the only sure way to check gas valve is with a pressure gauge, and as you suggest there may be a problem with the supply pressure.

Think you're right in saying it's time to call in a pro.

Cheers, tom.

 

[Agile]

We certainly would never advise a DIYer to change a gas valve.

For a start its an expensive part to replace if its not the actual cause of the fault.

Then contrary to DIYer's expectations, they do NOT come ready adjusted and have to be set up after fitting so that the manufacturer's settings are achieved.

Tony

 

[tom955i]

Again thanks for the reply, and while I appreciate it's difficult to diagnose remotely what the problem may be, any chance in imparting what your collective wealth of experience may think it is.

Thanks again,

tom.

 

[Andygasman2010]

The boiler might not even have the right gas pressure coming into it. You'll need an RGI with suitable test equipment to check that, it's may be the gas meter govorner

National grid will changed it for free but i'm not sure if they'll take the word of a non registered fitter that it's the govorner that's at fault. Personally i wouldn't make anymore moves without checking gas pressures incase it leads to further unnecissary cost. Unfortunatly it looks like you're going to have to get an RGI in.