Worcester Bosch 24i Fault

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27 Apr 2012
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Manchester
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Hi All,

I have a Worcester Bosch 24i which is showing a fault intermittently (the light flashes 4-5 times per second).

The boiler fires up fine and occasionally (but not always) when the hot water is switched on it cuts out. Because it isn’t every time I don’t think its a fault with the diverted valve.

on other occasions it fires up and then cuts out after anything between 20 mins and 2 hours. It seems to be better earlier in the day.

I do have a gas engineer who I generally trust but he was flat out working 12 hours a day, 7 days a week before Christmas. he managed to pop round as a favour but typically when he was here everything worked fine and the fault couldn’t be replicated. He did say it was difficult to diagnose due to the number of faults connected to that light sequence but suggested replacing the sensors first at 240 for parts and labour and if that didn’t work then move onto PCB, valve and wiring harness (at 300ish plus labour). If going down that route I’d be close to 700 quid down if the sensors didn’t fix the problem.

In his opinion a new boiler would be the most economic solution and while I would love to do this I am currently at risk of redundancy so struggling financially. So really just reaching out for 2nd opinions - can anybody narrow down the likely cause based on the above.

Additional info, the guy above repressurised the system when he came so pressure should be ok. A few weeks before this started we had a radiator in the kitchen replaced, all others rads were bled but don’t know if this could have caused an issue somehow.

Any help much appreciated.
 
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Your engineer is quite correct as in it could be a few faults. Perhaps a Worcester fixed price repair might be an option, therefore if it’s a blocked heat exchanger, it shouldn’t cost the earth.
 
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Your engineer is quite correct as in it could be a few faults. Perhaps a Worcester fixed price repair might be an option, therefore if it’s a blocked heat exchanger, it shouldn’t cost the earth.
Cheers Chris, I’ll have a look into that. The heat exchanger was replaced earlier this year (another reason I don’t want to spend any more than I need to )
 
I had this exact same fault on my 24CDi an engineer who attended said to me that it was likely to be a blocked plate to plate heat exchanger or diverter valve fault. Whilst having a look around the unit to figure out how to replace the parts I accidentally knocked the wires that connect to the thermistor and it literally came away in my hand. Now I can't recall for sure if I ended up testing the resistance of the faulty vs new thermistor with a multi-meter but pretty sure I did.

I purchased a new thermistor from here as they were local to me...

https://www.wolseley.co.uk/product/worcester-bosch-87161423020-thermistor-sensor-kit/

Removed the 2 wires from the old thermistor and connected them to the new and the boiler fired up as would be expected when demand for hot water was seen. So I removed the old unit, replaced it with the new one (it was fiddly but doable with some patience), and have not had any problems since.

I'm not saying that this is definitely what is causing your fault but it certainly sounds similar to my fault and if it is can be resolved for a fraction of the time and cost of looking at things like the p2p or diverter valve.


On the video, if you pause at 11:04 & 23:20 you will see 2 white connectors sticking up with yellow wires coming out of them. These connectors are connected to something called a thermistor that on my 24CDi clamps around a pipe that exits the back top left (as you look at the boiler from the front) of the plate to plate heat exchanger.
 
Now I can't recall for sure if I ended up testing the resistance of the faulty vs new thermistor with a multi-meter but pretty sure I did.

Commonly, they will use a 1Kohm, 1000ohm measured at 20C. The actual measured value will vary a little with temperature, which is the whole idea.
 
Commonly, they will use a 1Kohm, 1000ohm measured at 20C. The actual measured value will vary a little with temperature, which is the whole idea.
@Harry Bloomfield , just a little ditty for you about measuring resistance of thermistors, the stated resistance is at 37 deg C because when testing the stated resistance is when you are holding them in your hand and that is body temp, if you want to measure the resistance when still fitted to the boiler you need to know what the temp of the water in the boiler is and a chart that tells you the corresponding resistance, I just carry spares and plug them in and dangle them in mid air to test, not a great beleiver in them going out of calibration, they either go open circuit or they dont
 
I just carry spares and plug them in and dangle them in mid air to test, not a great beleiver in them going out of calibration, they either go open circuit or they dont

I agree, I have never met one which has gone out of spec. they either work or do not work.

I'll correct my early post - most likely the specified resistance will be 10,000 Ohms (not 1000 Ohms) and that is measured at 25C, rather than the 20C I suggested above.
 
@Harry Bloomfield , I just carry spares and plug them in and dangle them in mid air to test, not a great beleiver in them going out of calibration, they either go open circuit or they dont

Your comment jogged my memory. Yes, I did a test with a meter and the faulty one did test open circuit.

I remember at the time thinking why on earth did the heating engineer not think to test something so simple and so easily accessible instead of going straight for swapping our major parts - p2p and diverter valve. Perhaps it is not a common issue.

Will be interesting to hear back from the OP
 
Your comment jogged my memory. Yes, I did a test with a meter and the faulty one did test open circuit.

I remember at the time thinking why on earth did the heating engineer not think to test something so simple and so easily accessible instead of going straight for swapping our major parts - p2p and diverter valve. Perhaps it is not a common issue.

Will be interesting to hear back from the OP

I guess there is not much difference in effort needed between unplugging the thermistor to test it with a meter, and just plugging a spare in and leaving it dangling in air, to see if the fault goes away. So long as the boiler sees a working thermistor, it will work - assuming that was the fault.
 
Thanks for all your help guys, I’ll be getting back in touch with my engineer as it’s slowly getting worse and suggest the points above especially the thermistor - I think from memory that was one of three things he was going to try initially so hopefully that will sort it relatively cheaply.
 
Hello everyone! Did you get the problem with your Junior 24i sorted Watworth? I am having the exact same problem at the minute. Boiler works fine from cold but if it’s been on CH a while and you open a tap it stops the circulating pump and switches to DHW then maybe runs for 10/20 seconds then goes into lock out and flashed the red light. Hopefully you can help
 

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