Worcester Greenstar 28i junior Boiler.... Please help!?

[TimRiding]

Got up, washed hair, made brew, went to wash cup an no hot water..., so I went to check boiler. Found V.low water pressure. I re-charged system to 1.5 bar, bled the rads and condenser an' hit reset. Boiler shut down, actuator reset itself, slow fan kicked in, I heared a single click from what sounded like the gas supply (couldn't hear the peizo ticking though). It stayed like this for approx. 30 secs then fan sped up a notch, and both the reset light and the blue boiler light started flashing at approx. 1 per second. It stayed in this state for 30 seconds an then the fan stopped. Went through this a few times (10 ish) then turned the rad temp dial to min to try an reset just in case it was in a lockout mode, left it for half an hour, came back, turned the rad dial up to max. an' tried again but got the same result.....currently joggin on the spot to keep warm so any help (on the boiler, not the joggin) would be really appreciated.

 

[LeedsPlumber]

If you turned of the power/ reset the boiler if will go in to cycling mode. Turn the heating up full after 20 minutes of turning itself on and off it should work fine.

 

[bengasman]

You bled the condenser????

 

[TimRiding]

Cheers pal, i'm gonna try it now,...somethin i forgot to mention is that i've got a remote thermostat. Do i need to turn that all the way down aswell as the dial on the boiler panel or does it not matter?.....sorry to mither

 

[TimRiding]

You bled the condenser????

err,...u spotted the fact i'm a complete novice an haven't a clue wot i'm on about. I bled the rads and then released the air at the manual vent point at the top, left hand side of the heat exchanger. Sorry 'bout the ambiguity.

 

[TimRiding]

i'm back again......right, this is what i did; i turned the power off at the mains. Then, with the boiler still switched off, turned the rad dial on the boiler right down and turned the remote control thermostat off. Then i switched the mains supply on. The reset light and the blue power light came on but were flashing (both approx. 1 pulse per second). The diverter valve moved slightly up an down and then moved into the fully up position, and the water pump came on. It (the boiler) didn't try to start itself at this point so i left it in that state for 30 minutes. I then switched the remote control thermostat to the manual position, with it set to 30 degrees and turned the rad dial on the boiler panel to max. Nothing happened, so i pressed the reset button. The diverter valve moved slightly an then settled in the fully down position, the fan kicked up, the gas valve clicked, the piezo clicked but the boiler didn't light. The piezo tried 4 times then the fan sped up for 30 secs then shut down, but the pump stayed on. Both lights were still flashing so i switched the remote to off and the rad dial to min. and left it like that for 30 minutes. I then turned both controllers to max, reset and.....back to square one. Any other suggestions would be more than welcome and thanks for the help so far : )

 

[holty]

do you have a card metre, is there gas to other aplliances e.g cooker

 

[TimRiding]

do you have a card metre, is there gas to other aplliances e.g cooker

Thanx for the response, an' yes, i've got a gas cooker an' it's fine, the pressure looks to be the same as always. I used it last night and had all the hob burners an the oven goin' at the same time.

 

[tonybhoy]

If your not getting hot water either then it sounds like the gas valve is faulty or something along those lines or the pcb perhaps.

 

[TimRiding]

If your not getting hot water either then it sounds like the gas valve is faulty or something along those lines or the pcb perhaps.

Cheers Tony. Yeh, neither hot water or central heating works. I realised yesterday that i may have jumped to the wrong conclusions when i first saw the low pressure reading in the system, an maybe that had nothin to do with the fault. There may have been just enough pressure in to allow the system to function ok, an' i'd just assumed that that was related to the fault. Is there a way i can check the board an' gas valve to see if they're working as they should?, as i don't fancy payin £180 fer a new board (that was my last quote) just to find out it's not the culprit.....thanx again for the help guys.

 

[TimRiding]

If your not getting hot water either then it sounds like the gas valve is faulty or something along those lines or the pcb perhaps.[/quote.

U were spot on m8. I wasn't sure how exactly to chech either the valve or the board so I ended up gettin an engineer out, an he confirmed a faulty valve. £210 lighter but 100% warmer so thanx once again to all who tried to help the nube out of his hole. Tonybhoy m8, u know ur ****.
Happy New Year all