Worktop jig sizes

[DanGB]

Hi all,

Fitting a solid wood worktop soon, and just got a router to make the holes for the bolts (The worktop is just butt joined, no mitre).

i purchased a budget router jig to make the bolt holes but it turns out its massive and probably not the right one.

This is what I purchased:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000ND6UT4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The holes for the bolts are massive and wider than the standard 150mm worktop bolt ends.

Do I have he wrong type of jig, and which sort do I need, bearing in mind its only for one job and to make the holes for the bolts.

Thanks.
Dan

 

[Transit80]

Hi dan, that jig is OK for doing the bolts because when you put your jig pins in the holes, the jig will go past the edge of your worktop allowing you to put the router at the end of the hole in the jig to start cutting the bolt slots. You may also want to put biscuits(not the dunking ones!!) between the bolt holes so the worktop has a bit more help in staying straight,especially if you are using 30mm thick ones.
Need any help, just ask.

Chris

 

[vinn]

What above says is excellent.

But if this is the extent of your work top jobbing then send the jig back, you dont need it.
You can mark and route out slots for bolts or biscuits by hand.
Messing with an unfamiliar tool like the jig could cause you problems.

Are you butting up at a corner or in-line?

 

[DanGB]

What above says is excellent.

But if this is the extent of your work top jobbing then send the jig back, you dont need it.
You can mark and route out slots for bolts or biscuits by hand.
Messing with an unfamiliar tool like the jig could cause you problems.

Are you butting up at a corner or in-line?

Butting up corners.

I think you may be right about not needing the jig, but why do jigs have the bolt holes, is it that easy to do it without a jig accurately?

Thanks.

 

[vinn]

It helps to make a much quicker job. And its very accurate.
I've known guys who made little handy bolt/slot jigs to save messing with the custom jig from the van.

So you have square edge w/t's?
Cut your tops and offer them up to the units - check underneath for the best positions for any bolts.
You need access for a tightening tool from below the w/t's.
Dont be afraid to cut away any stretchers or bits of cabinet to help you gain access.
I laminate most all raw w/t edges but just so long as you "waterproof" the raw edge then do whats comfortable for you.

 

[Transit80]

It helps to make a much quicker job. And its very accurate.
I've known guys who made little handy bolt/slot jigs to save messing with the custom jig from the van.

So you have square edge w/t's?
Cut your tops and offer them up to the units - check underneath for the best positions for any bolts.
You need access for a tightening tool from below the w/t's.
Dont be afraid to cut away any stretchers or bits of cabinet to help you gain access.
I laminate most all raw w/t edges but just so long as you "waterproof" the raw edge then do whats comfortable for you.

Again ,good advice. If you have a 35mm hinge hole cutter you could mark out the hole positions,drill down approx 22mm, cut a slot for the bolt with a tenon saw hey presto,bolt holes.
HTH. cant do drawings on here.

Chris

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Perhaps also worth mentioning that part of the reason that worktop joiner jig slots look so massive is that they are designed in the main to be used with a 1/2in (12.7mm) cutter and a 30mm guide bush

 

[gregers]

and use this stuff to join them together,i no longer use colorfil,but this stuff is the dos m8.